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Routes in The Zoo

Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 892 total, 9/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Aug 27, 2009
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Are you a fan of head injuries and awkward painful climbing? Do you enjoy bouldering with a helmet and causing harm to your spotter when you fall? If so, then this is the climb for you! On the backside of the Zoo, this sharp arete rises out of a hole and while it doesn't look half bad, it is possibly one of the worst problems in the park. Start at the base of the arete and climb out of the hole while fighting the barndoor into the other boulder, then as you finally reach the crux, try to avoid cracking your head open or knocking your spotter off of the boulder as you grunt for the lip.

Location

On the backside of the Zoo, next to the stream, on the the same boulder as Jaws (Texas Chainsaw Massacre) and The Professor. From Hobbit Hole you could actually just duck through the cave and come out the back, but it's easier to walk around.

Protection

Two or three pads, spotter, maybe even a helmet

Photos

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Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5+
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5+
Ian-

This climbs the sharper knife like arete. The other overhang to the right also has a v4ish climb and potential for a harder line or two. Tyler and I messed around on it a little bit a while ago. Really nice rock. Jun 18, 2016
Jake Perry
Concord, NH
Jake Perry   Concord, NH
Yes it is called Crystal Method and yes Crystal Method is also a v8 on the method boulder. Lol there's also two classic cracks and two rio's problems (both in boulder natural too haha). Jun 17, 2016
Wait....is this really called Crystal Method? Like is there seriously 2 climbs at Pway called Crystal Method? lol come on now...

Isn't Crystal Method a V8 on the Method boulder? Jun 17, 2016
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
So this climbs the arete? There are some face holds sorta farther in the cave, I figured it traversed to the arete and then up, didn't look too closely though. Jun 17, 2016
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V5+
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V5+
C'mon Bryce, this climb isn't THAT bad.

If you removed the climb from its terrible location, it might be three star worthy. The climbing is quite technical and challenging, with movement straight out of Squamish.

That's not to say that all of the negatives Bryce mentioned aren't accurate. Personally, I think it's worthy of one star. And more traffic. With the caveat that you should be pretty solid at the grade and preferably have a couple of pads and a spotter. Oct 9, 2013