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Routes in The Zoo

Type: Boulder, 8 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,757 total, 14/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 18, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

Sit start on shallow underclings. Pop out left to edge and cross feet. High heel with left hand in super-shallow dish. Super-thin crimp with the right hand. Pull hard and deadpoint to sloping topout holds.
Location of your heel will make this climb V6 for some and V-impossible for others. Accuracy of your heel placement is paramount.

As an alternative for 6ft+ climbers, It is possible to make a big move from the right undercling and left flake all the way to the top.

Location

Just right of Up and on bulging low-ball boulder.

Protection

Pad

Photos

Zac Clark  
 
I am not sure how I feel about this climb. Primarily, I don't know why the sit start includes the first move since the left crimp is very easy to reach. IMHO it should be down graded and start with the left had side pull... but I recognize I am in no way the one to make that call. It just seams like a pointlessly hard first move for a not that great climb anyway. Nov 5, 2017
Graham O.  
 
Fun and hard. I start w/ my RH on the juggy under cling pocket and my LH crossed underneath it on a bad sloper. Jul 8, 2016
I never knew there WAS a left hand start - I always started by pulling on right handed in the pocket, since the guidebook says you shouldn't start AT the left sidepull. I did this years ago with the throw, and went back yesterday to basically punish myself.

I wasn't managing the throw to the lip without my foot dabbing on the pad, but without having seen the comments here I tried the left heel hook and it works unbelievably well. This may even be easier than v5 with the heel. Apr 7, 2013
Ian Wauchope
Dover, NH
  V5
Ian Wauchope   Dover, NH
  V5
I agree with bryce. The first move does not need to be skipped. I did it yesterday with the pocket and a crappy sloper left of the pocket. The difficulty feels the same as before. Dec 12, 2010
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V5
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V5
The left hand starting undercling is indeed gone, but it can still be started without skipping the first move. Right hand still goes in the pocket, but gaston the hold below the pocket with your left and layback off a low left foot. Slightly harder than before, but still V5. Oct 15, 2010
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
so not sure if this is old news but I was out there last friday and the undercling start is gone... you now have to start with the pocket and the side pull out left... does it make the grade easier? Oct 10, 2010
andyscott
Massachusetts
  V6
andyscott   Massachusetts
  V6
I am not that tall..around 5'10"... was able to do it by from the side pull and the thin crimp...with feet underneath, just launching to the lip... the heel beta seemed a bit ridiculous. Sep 19, 2010
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  V5
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  V5
I'm weak and suck, but I'm tall. I think that tall person beta makes this very problem much easier, it went down again last night and I don't climb this grade. Sep 25, 2009
Jesse Coburn
Manchester, NH
  V5
Jesse Coburn   Manchester, NH
  V5
i'm 5'9" and stuck the top with the left hand on the really good side pull and right hand on the sticky face crimp. it felt v5 to me. the heel hook beta would totally go, but i needed to work it for a little while longer. i thought the first move was the hardest. the weird under cling gave me the most trouble. Apr 16, 2009
GarrettM
bedford, nh
GarrettM   bedford, nh
i really didnt find this route that difficult. i just used the heel hook and powered 1 move to the top out. Mind you im 6'2" so i see it being a little more difficult for smaller climbers. My friend who is about 5'9" was able to do the same but he found a higher right foot that bumped him up about 4 inches.

Definatly a "holy shit how did i do that" type of route though. Super fun Nov 5, 2008
Lanky
Tired
  V5
Lanky   Tired
  V5
I've never seen anyone use the heel beta. I saw one guy (5'10'') send by sticking the lip with his left from the right hand undercling and another (5'8'') just pull on and stick the lip right handed from the low edge/right undercling holds--he then described the move as being "like throwing a baseball at the lip."

I try this every time I go to Pawtuckaway and can't frickin' do it! It's replaced Gadgetry as "that probelm I just can't seem to do." Aug 5, 2008
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i was introduced to this route soon after its first ascent and i was told it was V7... i onsigthed it and as far as i know i came up with the heel hook beta, i sugested V5 but im pretty tall so that might explain it... until then it was all wicked strong dudes who had done it and using techneque had never occured to them they just went straight up without the heel hence, V7... ok im done with my story... good night... Feb 26, 2008
Ladd

 
Ladd    
 
It does. But it is harder than all the other V5s I've done or tried. Feb 26, 2008
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
 
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
 
i thought the guide book says V5? Feb 25, 2008