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Routes in The Zoo

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,053 total, 8/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 18, 2007
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Stand start at the crux of Hobbit Hole with a good fingerlock and get your feet on the wall. Climb straight up with your choice of a gaston or a sidepull for your left hand and balance up until you can stand in the crack. Finish up easier terrain.

Location

Same as Hobbit Hole

Protection

Pad and spotter required

Photos

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Graham O.
  V2
Graham O.  
  V2
This thing isn't amazing, but is worth doing if you just wanna try something new. Felt super easy for v4, but it actually helps to be short on this one. Jul 28, 2016
Thanks for clearing that up bryce. I assumed that I had been doing something wrong beta wise. Maybe I'll come back to it one day but I had looked at those other sets of beta and they just didn't seem to be as natural or fun looking. It is probably because the real beta is hard lol May 6, 2014
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V4
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V4
There's always been confusion on this thing, but there are two versions... the easier one, which starts in the fingerlock and climbs straight up without using anything near Hobbit Direct, or the harder one which starts the same and moves slightly right to a tiny crimp and balances straight up the face. May 6, 2014
Climbed this today with the crimp on hobbit hole as a left start hand and my right resting in the crack as a sloper. Got a foot on a hobbit direct starting hold and crimped to the top. I may be missing something but with that beta it felt easier than edges. It felt significantly easier than hobbit direct. What do you guys think about the grade? As usual the climb was pretty good quality May 5, 2014
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
  V4
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
  V4
I got on this today and I always stood at the middle of the crack and went straight up... I always thought thats how it went cuz it says john's stand start. also it didn't quite feel v4 to me... am I missing something? I go literally strait up from the fingerlock on hobbit hole Oct 11, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V4
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V4
This thing shuts me down every time im on it! Dec 5, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
  V4
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
  V4
the guide said this was V4 and i think i agree why the grade inflate? Aug 22, 2009