Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m)
GPS: 38.83737, -108.57271
FA: this awaits a ground up ascent
Page Views: 1,216 total · 6/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Aug 13, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, N R, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

2021 Edit: This route is the squeeze chimney directly beneath the Quarry Proper. It's actually pretty good as far as chimneys go- and classic Unaweep. Some incredibly imaginative beta at the crux. One piece of advice, go right hip in and there is some miraculous gear and holds. The chimney then shifts to OW and once things get desperate, consider your blindspot ;) 

Above the OW, you can stay in gully and climb into the quarry proper, ultimately climbing up either Weinerschtitzel, Decoco Crack, or Hans Landa. My preference: move right on sporty 5.10- face to the anchors of Kira, get a job! and link into that route for a mega 210' pitch of 5.10+

Just be aware the you would be in the danger zone if gumbies in the Quarry are kicking down loose rock, so let other parties know if you plan to climb under them. 

Location Suggest change

It's possible to approach this route from the bottom, but arguably much more convenient to fix a line from anchors at the Quarry Proper, and tr solo this as a first pitch to Weinerschtitzel, Decoco Crack, Hans Linda, or Kira Get a Job. 

Protection Suggest change

The chimney sections protects well with small-to-medium gear, but bring whatever wide gear you can get your hands on. Singles up to a 6 would be fine.

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