Type: Trad, 170 ft
FA: KC Baum
Page Views: 1,631 total · 13/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on May 19, 2008
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This is a great climb that can be done in two pitches, but it's well worth doing as one.

Location

It is the farthest left of the cluster of climbs at the top of the trail. Go up the obvious crack system.

Protection

Doubles from fingers to #4 Camalot with some extra hand-sizes. There is a length of chain at the top that allows you to rap to the ground with a double rope rap.

Photos

Matthew Seymour
1996 Dodge Van, USA
Matthew Seymour   1996 Dodge Van, USA
The rappel from the top of this climb is from a chain around a tree. It can just be done to the ground with two 60m ropes.

Additionally, this climb can just be led all the way with a 60m rope if you manage you runners. Jul 5, 2009
Mickey Guziak
Grand Junction
  5.11-
Mickey Guziak   Grand Junction
  5.11-
The hardest "5.10" I've ever climbed. The offwidth section is a lot longer than the topo describes it in the KC Baum Unaweep book. A good climb if you're looking for some super painful "5.9+ great hands." Jul 4, 2013
Alex Garhart
  5.10
Alex Garhart  
  5.10
Keep in mind Baum has some big mitts. I remember the route being physical but fun, on par for most 10s in the canyon. Jul 6, 2013
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.11-
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.11-
Mickey and I climbed both Lost Vikings and Moonshadow consecutively. Major difference in difficulty! Hardest "5.10" - I'll go along with that! Ringlocks in a flaring, featureless offwidth! Arghhh! We got worked! Jul 7, 2013
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.11-
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.11-
After climbing some Yosemite chimneys, maybe this is a ten but a hard one!!!!!!!! :-) Sep 25, 2013