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Routes in Central Quarry Wall

Chalk of Destiny, The T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chariots of Fire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ecylias T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incongruous T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Last Rites T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mayachulla T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moon Shadow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarantine, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Quarrel, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Stochasticity T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunrise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Synchronicity T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Type: Trad, 280 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: KC Baum and Mel Thorson
Page Views: 135 total, 1/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on Aug 15, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The full name of this route is "Rite of Passage: A Tribute to Mugs Stump." It is considered one of the hardest ticks in the Canyon. KC dedicated the route to his friend, the visionary climber Mugs Stump, who had recently died near the time of the FA.

This is a 4 star route that has probably not seen 10 ascents in 15 years. It has fallen into disrepair. There are large bushes growing in the middle of the route and much of the crack is muddy. With regular ascents, this route would be a Unaweep classic. Even as it stands now, it is worth doing.

Baum breaks the route into 3 pitches, but it could be done in two long pitches. Climb fingers and face until the crack opens more, eventually ledging out 120 feet up (optional first belay). Continue with good, steep hands and finger to another stance (60 feet). Here is where the bushes get gnarly. Climb steep hands, passing an OW with a rest. Now the crux: flared tips for 6 feet- very sequential! Once through the business, enjoy steep jamming of various sizes until you reach the most desperate mantle I've ever done. Good luck. It's a brilliant end to a memorable climb - pure Unaweep!

Location

It is approximately 200 feet west of the quarry. If approaching from the top, locate a tree with a rap anchor on the cliff edge roughly 30 feet west of the quarry. A double rope rappel get you to the ground. Walk west past a very large chimney/corner. Look for an obvious left-leaning crack about 50 feet right of the corner (look at photo).

Protection

A standard rack to 4". The crux is protected by very small gear. A wire brush and pair of pruners is not a bad idea....

Photos

rob pizem
5.11c/d
rob pizem  
5.11c/d
Classic line, a couple of bushes need trimming, other than that, awesome! Hard to call it 5.12 though. May 1, 2012