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Routes in Central Quarry Wall

Chalk of Destiny, The T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chariots of Fire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ecylias T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incongruous T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Last Rites T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mayachulla T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moon Shadow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarantine, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Quarrel, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Stochasticity T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunrise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Synchronicity T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: KC Baum roped solo, 1990. FFA: KC Baum and Jeff Hollenbaugh, 1991
Page Views: 373 total, 4/month
Shared By: Matthew Seymour on Jul 2, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Another beautiful crack climb on Quarry Wall. Very clean for Unaweep.

Start just right of a dihedral system in a short, left-facing corner that quickly turns to a nice crack system on a face.

A couple tricky moves get you of the ground and into the nice clean hand and finger crack. Continue up, utilizing a few stems on the left, to a point where the crack arches sharply left. Continue strait up into another finger and hand crack that arches above the original (crux). Continue up this crack, again stemming left occasionally, until the crack merges with the dihedral. From here, you make a few tricky moves past a bulge and gain a nice ledge and belay.

Walk off right or climb one of a few short cracks leading off the exit ramp.

Location

Rap into the wall from Moon Shadow.
Walk about 100 yards right until you see an obvious, clean crack just right of a dihedral.

Protection

Double set cams and nuts up to wide hands.

Photos

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Skyeler Congdon
his van
 
Skyeler Congdon   his van
 
One of the best lines at this wall! Sustained, interesting movement, and a crux right at the end! Classic. Aug 15, 2009