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Routes in Central Quarry Wall

Chalk of Destiny, The T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chariots of Fire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ecylias T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incongruous T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Last Rites T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mayachulla T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moon Shadow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarantine, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Quarrel, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Stochasticity T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunrise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Synchronicity T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
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Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: No
Page Views: 99 total · 1/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on Jul 21, 2010
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Well were dropping in looking for the climb "Lichen" which gets three stars. But in all honesty it kinda looked like shit so we sniffed around for another line out. In this section of Quary wall there are two large Ponderosa Pines this route is about thirty feet climbers right of the rightmost one when looking up at the wall. Not too bad, some good clean climbing some junk it would probably get lots better with some traffic or if someone took it upon them selves to drop in and clean it out a bit.

P1: Get out of the drain that is "Lichen" and head to the skiers left down and around the corner. You are looking for a clean hands/fist/ OW left facing corner. the sectionos is kinda short like 20' or so but it is unmistakeble. Head out the line of least resistance up a hard OW section to the top of a pillar below a cleanish finger crack. 110' -/+ 5.10

P2: Slot a good micro tcu into the seam and Tension left into the hand crack and fire up to the rim. This move looked about 5.11 but you basically were moving onto hanging unstable dirt clumps. So we jsut passed this short section the way the french do, and continued on through good fairly clean cracks to the rim. 100' 5.10


To be edited in.


Doubles from mico small to a number 3 camalot, single # 4/5, nuts, long runners, ect.


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