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Routes in Central Quarry Wall

Chalk of Destiny, The T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chariots of Fire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ecylias T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Incongruous T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Last Rites T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mayachulla T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Moon Shadow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Quarantine, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Quarrel, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rite of Passage T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sidewinder T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Stochasticity T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunrise T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Synchronicity T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C0
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: KC Baum
Page Views: 501 total, 5/month
Shared By: Skyeler Congdon on May 15, 2009
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Probably the steepest crack in the canyon! Chariots of Fire is the splitter immediately right of Sidewinder. In fact, halfway or so up the first pitch it is possible to move left to a good rest on Sidewinder. The first crux, for me at least, was trying to get back into the Chariots' crack after this rest. Steep bouldery moves protected by small, sparse pro lead to another rest before the second crux: slightly overhanging, thin hands/rattly fingers. An amazing line and a proud tick for sure.

The second pitch is not nearly as classic and most parties will be satisfied to rap off the chains after pitch 1. To finish, climb straight up off the belay, gain a juggy flake traverse out right, then make 5.8 moves without pro around an arete to the right.

To descend from the top, rap Moon Shadow, 10 ft to the left. 200ft.

Location

Locate Moon Shadow and Sidewinder. This climbs ascends the next crack to the right of Sidewinder. The classic, thin hands splitter at the top of the first pitch will be obvious from the ground.

Protection

Many in the very small to medium size. Nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot is needed.

There is a two pin anchor at the top of the first pitch. Two ropes will get you down.

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