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Routes in Rockgarden Wall

Cherry Cola S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Marqueritaville T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neptune T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New Generation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Vision T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Notorious S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sanity Assassin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scotch and Soda T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sea of Holes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowfox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smerk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smooth Torquer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport Court S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Uncola S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wally Street S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: R. McGown, T. Olson
Page Views: 879 total, 9/month
Shared By: peachy spohn on Jul 11, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Carver cliff is on PRIVATE PROPERTY! Details

Description

This is the obvious off-width/chimney climb to the left of Smooth Torquer. Place your gear in the smaller crack that is on the right and wiggle up the route with your back against the felt wall. It is fairly dirty, but solid rock and fun moves make it worth your time (and with more ascents it is sure to get better). A hollow sounding flake is near the top, but seems to be solid enough...just tred lightly.

Location

Left side of Rock Garden Wall and left of Smooth Torquer.

Protection

Gear to 2" and bolted anchor.

Photos

bryans
  5.9
bryans  
  5.9
I banged my knee against the stacked up flakes/blocks on the right wall about 15 feet below the anchor. (The flakes are well chalked where they offer finger slots) The lowest flake now flexes a couple inches and would be easy to rip off the wall - except there is another flake stacked on top. These flakes will come off on anyone who pulls out on them too hard, and they will fall directly on the belayer. I've climbed this route dozens of times, and never felt them move before. Someone with a hammer or crowbar could trundle the flakes easily. I will do so soon, though if they don't come out easily I'll leave them in place on the theory that a climber can't accidentally by hand dislodge whatever I can't dislodge with tools and leverage. For now, I left an X on the lowest and loosest flake. Heads-up! Sep 11, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.9+
Patrick Beeson   Portland, OR
  5.9+
This was my first off-width climb! I found it a fun lead despite the dirt and cobwebs.

This route takes nuts well. I found plenty of opportunities for gear until the move to the anchor, by which time you can either throw in a larger cam or use a sling as others have suggested. Jul 4, 2017
Spent the afternoon brushing off dirt, moss, and weeding. Should stay pretty decent clean for this season at least. May 29, 2017
bryans
  5.9
bryans  
  5.9
From the ground you can see a 3 inch slot at the exit to the right side of the chimney. A 3 inch cam goes there while you contemplate the exit moves, and it is eventually at your feet as you make a couple easy moves to the anchor. You could lasso a block up higher, but those blocks appear less than bomber. I'd rather accept a clean fall on that cam at my feet than lead fall onto a dubious block. Very well protected climb overall, and as of yesterday was more or less clean. Sep 28, 2016
The finish of the route moves past a broken flake on the right side of the chimney. Avoid loosing this on your partner.

No need for big gear, cams to 3". Double length sling to lasso a block to protect final moves, or run it out about 8' Aug 1, 2013
another Chad
  5.9
another Chad  
  5.9
This is a really nice climb and protects well. Unfortunately it's dirty higher up but still worth tying in for. A little bit of cleaning by each climber would do this line a world of good.

Chad May 21, 2012
peachy spohn  
 
I saw two seperate groups get on Neptune this weekend and it seems to be getting cleaner! Jul 13, 2009