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Neptune

5.9, Trad, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 28 votes
FA: R. McGown, T. Olson
Oregon > Portland & The… > Carver > Carver Cliff > Rockgarden Wall
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Description

This is the obvious off-width/chimney climb to the left of Smooth Torquer. Place your gear in the smaller crack that is on the right and wiggle up the route with your back against the left wall. It is fairly dirty, but solid rock and fun moves make it worth your time (and with more ascents it is sure to get better). Beware of a hollow sounding flake near the top, but it seems to be solid enough...just tread lightly.

Location

Left side of Rock Garden Wall and left of Smooth Torquer.

Protection

Gear to 2" and bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Neptune is the obvious offwidth. Gear will sit in the right crack. Your meatbag will shimmy up against the left. Chain anchors sit just above the ledge a bit to the right of the top
[Hide Photo] Neptune is the obvious offwidth. Gear will sit in the right crack. Your meatbag will shimmy up against the left. Chain anchors sit just above the ledge a bit to the right of the top
Neptune
[Hide Photo] Neptune

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

peachy spohn
Portland
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] I saw two seperate groups get on Neptune this weekend and it seems to be getting cleaner! Jul 13, 2009
C h a d
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This is a really nice climb and protects well. Unfortunately it's dirty higher up but still worth tying in for. A little bit of cleaning by each climber would do this line a world of good.

Chad May 21, 2012
[Hide Comment] The finish of the route moves past a broken flake on the right side of the chimney. Avoid loosing this on your partner.

No need for big gear, cams to 3". Double length sling to lasso a block to protect final moves, or run it out about 8' Aug 1, 2013
[Hide Comment] Spent the afternoon brushing off dirt, moss, and weeding. Should stay pretty decent clean for this season at least. May 29, 2017
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] This was my first off-width climb! I found it a fun lead despite the dirt and cobwebs.

This route takes nuts well. I found plenty of opportunities for gear until the move to the anchor, by which time you can either throw in a larger cam or use a sling as others have suggested. Jul 4, 2017
Dan Bookless
Bend, OR
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Quality line. Engaging mini adventure Jul 28, 2019
Sage Bedell
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Was happy to have a #4 for the run to the anchors. Unnecessary, yet nice to have. Worthy climb! Apr 22, 2021
Jessie McQuiston
Eugene, OR
[Hide Comment] The OW line is fairly easily protected with singles up to 6. You can bump a 6 up for several feet in the meet of the line. I enjoyed this route. It’s topropable if you traverse from the top of Smerk to set up the anchor. Oct 9, 2022
Kele Rivers
Portland, OR
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Death flake about 2/3 of the way up on the right, placed a big chalk X on it. I believe this is the same flake mentioned by Patrick, but it is loose enough now that it will wiggle with minimal force applied.

I also found bumping a #6 to be super helpful for the middle section of the climb, with a #5 being useful for the first section of offwidth.

I might recommend rapping this route, as my rope wanted to feed into a grabby constriction upon lowering. Be careful of this when pulling it. Aug 4, 2024
bryans
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Lots of comments about big cams. For 20 years I've placed gear in the right side crack, and never placed a big cam in the left side offwidth. A nut or two goes in where the right side crack narrows, to protect the mantle moves. I bring doubles to 2, and a single 3 to protect the finish. Jun 9, 2025