Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Rockgarden Wall

Cherry Cola S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Marqueritaville T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neptune T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Generation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Vision T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Notorious S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sanity Assassin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scotch and Soda T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sea of Holes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowfox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smerk S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Smooth Torquer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport Court S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Uncola S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wally Street S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,742 total · 15/month
Shared By: Wolfgang Braun on Nov 7, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Carver cliff is on PRIVATE PROPERTY! Details

Description

Begin just left of the Sanity Assassin Off width. Climb a easy dihedral to a big flake. Jam Or Layback the flake until you get under the bulge. Clip a bolt then make some powerful moves on good holds over the bulge. Some laid down climbing leads to a moderate rest. Next is the crux, either go straight up on small holds, or reach out left to the sloping arete until you reach a jug. Clip a piton, then make some balancy Tip jams that lead to a small ledge below the anchor.

The second pitch is 5.9 trad that leads to the top of the cliff, but it is likely that no one has done it in a long time, meaning it would be really dirty.

Location

Just left of the Sanity Assassin block, right of the sign in a small corner.

Protection

P1: 3 Bolts, 1 Piton, Gear to 2 inches, 3 bolt anchor with yellow webbing.

P2: Gear

Photos

Ian G.
PDX, OR
  5.11b
Ian G.   PDX, OR
  5.11b
Piton looks suspect. You can place a "good enough" yellow TCU right by it though if you want to back it up. Oct 11, 2009
dmPete
  5.11a/b
dmPete  
  5.11a/b
Piton still looks suspect. My climbing partner and I each took modest whips on it, though, and it held...for what that's worth. In hindsight, maybe not the brightest idea to use it, and would have been happier backing it up with a small cam.

A bright, shiny bolt right there instead would definitely improve the experience. Jul 31, 2015
another Chad
  5.11-
another Chad  
  5.11-
Pete, so the pin is holding falls and presumably kept you from taking a plunge and you advocate not using it?

If I remember correctly, nobody is going to take more than a mini-fall on that anyway as the climbing is over when the pin is at you waist. Right?

Chad Jul 31, 2015
dmPete
  5.11a/b
dmPete  
  5.11a/b
Chad, I definitely see your points...the piton will probably continue to hold for some time still, and the risk of it being strained by a larger fall isn't huge.

This probably just boils down to the two of us having different risk tolerances, which is totally ok by me. Aug 13, 2015
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
I'm personally of the opinion that pins are outdated. Pins are designed to pulled, and designed to set with a hammer. Without carrying a hammer, you can't check to see if it's properly seated. There is no reason that a fixed pin shouldn't be pulled and replaced with a bolt now. I've also pulled several pins that were much newer, and they were halfway rusted through on the blade under the rock. Apr 9, 2016
another Chad
  5.11-
another Chad  
  5.11-
update: Three years ago I tried to funk out the pin in question. Today I tried again. Either my cable was going to snap or the piton eye was was going to tear before I could get the pin to budge. Agreed, pins are not an ideal solution, especially given our climate, but this one seems to be extremely solid right now and it happens to be in a great spot for the leader.

Chad Apr 10, 2016
Mr. Yeager
Portland, OR
Mr. Yeager   Portland, OR
Caught several folks trying to RP this line over the memorial day weekend, still seems to hold firm. Agree with the previous comments that it's not ideal, but seems to be "good enough" for now. Which, it's been 9 years since the original comment... that's some staying power. Was confident enough for it to hold to get the send. Cheers. May 29, 2018

More About Night Vision

Printer-Friendly