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Routes in Rockgarden Wall

Cherry Cola S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Marqueritaville T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Neptune T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
New Generation T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Night Vision T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Notorious S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sanity Assassin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scotch and Soda T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sea of Holes S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Shadowfox T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Smerk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Smooth Torquer S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Sport Court S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Uncola S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Wally Street S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Tim Olson, Greg Lyon
Page Views: 960 total, 9/month
Shared By: phillip Hranicka on Jun 16, 2009
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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12 Opinions

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Carver cliff is on PRIVATE PROPERTY! Details

Description

Let's reclaim this forgotten gem- Start in the wide right side of the Combination Block and traverse right to the thin crack. Still dirty, but will get clean with traffic. The original anchor was off to the right as the crack peters out, but a more logical finish follows the crack left towards Wally Street. Keep an eye out for helpful pockets and edges on the right as you climb.

Location

This route starts immediately right of the Combination Block. Follow the obvious crack splitting the face to an anchor.

Protection

This crack eats up nuts and small cams (no larger than .5").

Photos

bryans
  5.8+
bryans  
  5.8+
I placed two great .75 BD cams after the bolt, about 15 feet apart. In between them are some mossy and insecure stances that make it tough to hang out and place the small nuts that protect this section. This section, combined with the mandatory unprotected finish to the anchor (not to mention the dirty and awkward crux at the bolt), make this short route pretty heady for new 5-8 trad leaders. If clean, short but stout 5-8, but right now 5-9ish and spooky. Sep 11, 2017
If you're a new trad lead like me, I wouldn't recommend this one as a place to push your grade. I thought the section after the bolt and the traverse right was awkward to protect if you're trying to sew it up, with relatively insecure footholds and not-great nut placements. Pretty mossy as of Sept 2017, may be different as it cleans up. But, as mentioned, I'm a noob. Sep 9, 2017
another Chad
  5.8+
another Chad  
  5.8+
After the traverse, the crack will eat up nuts all the way to the anchor. This climb is fun and a good introduction to nut-craft.

Chad May 12, 2013