| Type: | Sport, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 42.53256, -107.56149 |
| FA: | Richard and Katherine Collins mid-nineties |
| Page Views: | 4,206 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Stuart Ritchie on Jul 3, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Description
If you enjoy moderate granite slab climbing, you'll love this obscure gem! There is an excellent topo of the route in Collins & White's Lander Rock guide, check the shop copy at Wild Iris mountain sports. The climbing is moderate with some more difficult (5.9) slab climbing coming on the 4th and 5th pitches. Expect bigger lead outs that require a cool head on the easier terrain, and bolts before the business or more difficult sections. Descend by walking off to the west down the Cowboy Route. (This could be very dangerous if wet!)
P1: Harder move off "fin" 5.8, ~50m 5 bolts, and 2x gear placements in the two overlap bulges.
P2: 5.6/5.7 cruiser runout ~50m 5 bolts
P3: 5.8 steeper ~39m 6 bolts
P4: 5.9 bulges, ~35m 3 or 4 bolts
P5: 5.9 ~35m friction moves through the bulge to the upper escape crack out left. ~3 bolts, gear for upper crack exit



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