Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lankin Dome

Cowboy Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Crevasse Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart of Stone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Earth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Nations T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Running Out of Blow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sky Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Star Jumper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tree Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus and Mars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Greg Collins et al, 1992
Page Views: 1,569 total · 13/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Mar 25, 2009
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Sticky situation Details
Access Issue: Close gates after passing through Details

Description

This is another stellar climb by the amazing Greg Collins. Hats off to Greg. This is right up there with Red Nations as being a great, great climb. The first pitch starts just to the right of the bottom of the 4th class crack going up to the Tree Route. Class 4 slab (short pitch) to a ledge with a little tree on it. The next pitch is 5.4 I suppose and goes to the two bolt anchor below and sltly left of the left facing dihedral above. The third pitch starts with the crux, several thin 11a face moves to the bottom of the dihedral. A BD microcam (#0 or #1) is handy when you get to the roof under the corner. Proceed up the dihedral, using a lot of runners to minimize rope drag (5.7/5.8). A second crux is near the top of this corner, just before you reach the bolt. I found a #0 tricam and a medium/small HB nut helped a lot here to protect the moves to the bolt. Clip the bolt and proceed up outrageously exposed and fun crimping to the top of the dihedral, where you flip around onto the outside edge on a couple of incut crimps. Proceed into a shallow bowl and clip the bolt with a sigh of relief. Two more 5.9 or 9+ bulges (bolts) lead to the two bolt belay. The fourth pitch takes a cool head, as it is very led out with scarce protection. It generally goes straight up, but wind a round a lot to find the most feasible way.

Location

This route is identified by the prominent left facing dhihedral about 300 ft. up, on the wall right of the Tree Route. Scramble up to the beginning of the class 4 crack leading up to the Tree Route and begin the climb on a class 4 slab leading to a ledge with a little tree on it (the first belay). From there, up to the bottom of the dihedral. Descend by the Cowboy Route or rappel Red Nations.

Protection

Rack of stoppers, set of Camelots to #3, RPs or (I found) a few small-medium HB nuts, set of tricams, a #0 and a #1 BD microcams are nice to have. Take 6-8 single length runners or so, and clips.

Photos

- No Photos -
Erik Gearhart
Seattle, WA
5.11a PG13
Erik Gearhart   Seattle, WA
5.11a PG13
Agree with the beta on the micro nuts on the dihedral at the top. And I'm still mad about Greg Collins sandbagging me into guiding a student up this! PS--the moves around the bolt before moving into the dihedral were quite difficult--way harder than the 10- rating he claimed at the time. Ahh, Greg! Aug 19, 2013

More About Planet Earth

Printer-Friendly