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Routes in Lankin Dome

Cowboy Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Heart of Stone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Earth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Nations T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Running Out of Blow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sky Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Star Jumper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tree Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus and Mars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,102 total, 10/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Mar 19, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Close gates after passing through Details
Sticky situation Details

Description

I describe this only because it is the main descent route from Lankin. The rock quality is really quite good, but descending it is like Half Dome without the cables. There has been at least one bad fall down this thing which she walked away from, though very bruised. Mike Lilygren has wedged a block in a crack at the top of the upper part, could use it for a rappel I think, though it wobbles. Otherwise you just have to suck it up and third class it down. It is particularly dangerous in high winds and when it gets wet.
This is the route on the slabs on the SW corner, above the gap you hike to from Nolan Pocket. From the top, it is a little hard to find. Wander along west from the summit down to some big blocks on the SWW side. Scramble down the south side of the last block. You'll see Mike's wedged block a little below you. Friction down in the direction of the gap below. Wind around and take your time.
There are two other options for getting off of Lankin. There is a chained rappel route down the Crevasse Route on the East ridge. The top anchor is a bit hard to find from above. There is also a rap route down Red Nations, just east of the summit. Walk along the east ridge about a rope length till above a big block perched above the south face. To its west, look for a two bolt Fixx ring rappel anchor on the edge of a big ledge. Unfortunately, this rappel is not plumb with the next rappel point below. When you are rapping down from the top anchor, look to your right for the two bolt rap anchor, above a small ledge: you have to pendulum over to it. The second rappel ends at the base of the Tree Route. Scramble down the lower part of the Tree Route from here. Recommend 55m ropes for these rappels.

Location

Ascends/descends the SW corner slab of Lankin, above the gap you reach when approaching from Nolan Pocket. Wind around a lot, look for the easiest way. Really nasty in high winds or when it gets wet. Block wedged in crack at the top, could possibly use for rappel.

Protection

sure

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