Elevation: 8,000 ft
GPS: 42.533, -107.561 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,290 total · 112/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Mar 18, 2009 with updates from Gee Dubble
Admins: Lauren Heerschap, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg
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Access Issue: Sticky situation Details
Access Issue: Close gates after passing through Details

Description

This is the high granite dome/peak seen to the north from the highway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap.
South side usually always sunny. Best climbing time in late spring/early Summer and Fall. Can be very, very windy. Incredible rock quality...granite. Wow. Very secluded, hour approach from any direction.

Getting There

Can go in through Lankin Gap, but this is closed in March-June for grazing. Can be very wet, 4WDish in spots.
I prefer to approach from Agate Flat Road to the west. This way is open year round, except of course when it's drifted in with snow. Did I forget to tell you about winter out here? As in driving to Prudhoe Bay in February? Anyway,this road heads north from the highway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap. Drive to the second cattle grate past the Sweetwater River bridge, turn right and drive up the fence line on a sandy track that goes out left after a few hundred feet, heading toward a gap between the hills. Go through a gate and across a little swamp. Drive east to the second "road" that goes right, usually very beaten down by cattle with a salt lick here. Wander out this scratch in the dirt, can be a bit on the 4WD edge. Go to a patch of trees at the base of the hill west of Lankin Dome above. This is Nolan Pocket. Park here. Hike up slabs and stuff to the gap below the descent route on the west side. Walk down the gulch paralleling the south face, something of a trail here. Keep going until you see the big crack system splitting the center of the south side (Tree Route). Probably don't need 4WD to get in, Ed and I have gotten around out there in his little Mazda just fine and the sound of sagebrush and small stones rubbing the bottom of the truck is actually rather soothing. But, high clearance is pretty nice.
Takes about 45 mins to 1 hour to get from the car to the Tree Route, or so it seems.

10 Total Climbs

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Location: Lankin Dome Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Lankin Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
 3
Cowboy Route
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Tree Route
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
Sky Route
Trad 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Venus and Mars
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 5
Star Jumper
Sport 6 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
Red Nations
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cowboy Route
 3
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Trad
Tree Route
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Sky Route
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Venus and Mars
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
Star Jumper
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Sport 6 pitches
Red Nations
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Lankin Dome »

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Can anyone comment on the road conditions for the two ways to access the dome and what way would be the best this August with a awd without much clearance.

Willing to hike a longer distance as we will be driving a Mazda CX-5 that is pretty new and not willing to scratch it up or bottom out.
Jul 4, 2017