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Routes in Lankin Dome

Cowboy Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Heart of Stone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Earth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Nations T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Running Out of Blow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sky Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Star Jumper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tree Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus and Mars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elevation: 8,000 ft
GPS: 42.533, -107.561 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: bob branscomb on Mar 18, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder
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Description

This is the high granite dome/peak seen to the north from the highway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap.
South side usually always sunny. Best climbing time in late spring/early Summer and Fall. Can be very, very windy. Incredible rock quality...granite. Wow. Very secluded, hour approach from any direction.
Close gates after passing through Details
Sticky situation Details

Getting There

Can go in through Lankin Gap, but this is closed in March-June for grazing. Can be very wet, 4WDish in spots.
I prefer to approach from Agate Flat Road to the west. This way is open year round, except of course when it's drifted in with snow. Did I forget to tell you about winter out here? As in driving to Prudhoe Bay in February? Anyway,this road heads north from the highway between Jeffrey City and Muddy Gap. Drive to the second cattle grate past the Sweetwater River bridge, turn right and drive up the fence line on a sandy track that goes out left after a few hundred feet, heading toward a gap between the hills. Go through a gate and across a little swamp. Drive east to the second "road" that goes right, usually very beaten down by cattle with a salt lick here. Wander out this scratch in the dirt, can be a bit on the 4WD edge. Go to a patch of trees at the base of the hill west of Lankin Dome above. This is Nolan Pocket. Park here. Hike up slabs and stuff to the gap below the descent route on the west side. Walk down the gulch paralleling the south face, something of a trail here. Keep going until you see the big crack system splitting the center of the south side (Tree Route). Probably don't need 4WD to get in, Ed and I have gotten around out there in his little Mazda just fine and the sound of sagebrush and small stones rubbing the bottom of the truck is actually rather soothing. But, high clearance is pretty nice.
Takes about 45 mins to 1 hour to get from the car to the Tree Route, or so it seems.

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Can anyone comment on the road conditions for the two ways to access the dome and what way would be the best this August with a awd without much clearance.

Willing to hike a longer distance as we will be driving a Mazda CX-5 that is pretty new and not willing to scratch it up or bottom out.
Jul 4, 2017

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