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Routes in Lankin Dome

Cowboy Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Heart of Stone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Earth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Nations T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Running Out of Blow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sky Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Star Jumper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tree Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus and Mars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Unknown, 1970s
Page Views: 1,812 total · 17/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Sticky situation Details
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A classic and very enjoyable crack route, hands to offwidth/squeeze chimney. Scramble up a long class four crack to an alcove at the base of the main crack system (poison ivy along here). First pitch is great hands in a corner, 5.7. Ends on a sloping ledge to the left before the overhanging entrance to the squeeze chimney. The beginning of the second pitch is the crux, wiggling into the squeeze chimney. This pitch ends on a long ledge system that is followed left and then scrambles up (class 4-5) to the summit.


Follows the prominent crack system that divides the south face in half. Start directly below the crack system, scramble past a large tree to the start of the stuff. Descend by Cowboy Route or the rappel route down Red Nations or the Crevasse Route rappels, if you can find the top rappel point.


Nuts/cams to 4", emphasis on small to large hands. May want a couple of 4 1/2" to 5" for the second pitch. Trad route...take mostly single length runners and plenty of gear to set up belays.


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