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Routes in Lankin Dome

Cowboy Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Heart of Stone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Earth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Nations T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Running Out of Blow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sky Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Star Jumper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tree Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus and Mars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Greg Collins, Sue Miller 1999
Page Views: 1,135 total · 10/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Mar 24, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Sticky situation Details
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Description

This is a stellar route, perhaps one of the top three routes in this entire range. At the start of the first pitch of the Tree Route, look on the right wall for a shallow corner with a bolt at its top. Go to the bolt, jog right then up the beautiful wall past many bolts on fantastic crimps of all sizes. Several 11a and 11b sections here, the hardest making a thin move to a wonderful juggy edge. Go over a roof (#3 Camelot here) and past some bolts to the three bolt anchor on a narrow ledge. The second pitch goes up, then left to a bolt. A wild mantel over the overhang leads to a line of bolts going left. Off the last bolt is the 11c crux, one or two very thin crimpy moves to a sinker hand jam above. Yard into this crack system and follow that until it fades, then head up to the huge ledge at the top.

Location

This is on the beautiful face right of the Tree Route. Scramble up the first class 4 crack system to the very beginning of the Tree Route. Red Nations starts up the shallow corner just right of the base of the Tree Route first pitch. Follow the bolts, for the most part.

Protection

Rack of stoppers, set of Camelots to #3. Save the #3 Camelot for the slot in the roof on the first pitch. Mostly bolt protection, take lots of quicks and a half dozen single length runners for the second pitch. Descend by the Cowboy Route or find the Fixx ring rappel anchors on the edge of the big ledge at the top. These will be to the east of the second belay. The first rappel is not plumb with the anchor below. As you descend, the next anchor will be to your right: a small pendulum is necessary to reach it.

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