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Routes in Lankin Dome

Cowboy Route T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Heart of Stone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Earth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Nations T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Running Out of Blow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sky Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Star Jumper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tree Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus and Mars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Greg Collins, Sue Miller, Mike Wood
Page Views: 797 total, 27/month
Shared By: Gee Double on Jul 15, 2015
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Close gates after passing through Details
Sticky situation Details

Description

Lankin Dome; Direct South Buttress, 1st a short 5.5 right facing corner to bolt anchor. A 5.6 pitch of run out slab. A 5.8 pitch up face crystals on right side of black water groove. Another 5.5 slab/face pitch with hard to find anchors and a last pitch with a 5.6 option up and left or a direct 5.9 crack above the belay. Summit, water filled pot holes, classic.

Location

Directly up the South Buttress. Look for small right facing corner to start and a short but blackest of 3 water grooves at 1/2 height.

Protection

Mostly bolted face so a very light rack, maybe 3-4 small to medium cams and quickdraws and locking biners. Bolted belays, except for summit.

Photos

Excellent route with moments of run out that threaten to make you crap your pants - just keep climbing. Oct 28, 2016
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
 
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
 
I do believe that the direct variation to the final pitch is 5.9 slab (protected well enough) and not a 5.9 crack.

Excellent route. Dec 14, 2015