Avg: 3.8 from 8 votes
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Greg Collins, Sue Miller, Mike Wood|
|Page Views:||2,608 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||Gee Dubble on Jul 15, 2015|
|Admins:||Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson|
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Lankin Dome; Direct South Buttress. The classic of it’s length and grade in Wyoming.
1st a short 5.5 right facing corner to bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: 5.6 run out slab to a crystal hole belay.
3: 5.7 slab near a white dike to slab ledge.
4: 5.8 up face crystals on right side of black water groove.
5: 5.5 slab/face pitch with hard to find anchors in a scoop, with steep, red colored rock above.
6: steep prow right of belay in that steep red rock. 5.7
7: last pitch with a 5.6 option up and left or a direct 5.9+ above the belay.
Summit, water filled pot holes, classic.
Directly up the South Buttress. Look for small right facing corner to start and a short but blackest of 3 water grooves at 1/2 height. The 3 black water groves are obvious from down in Lankin Gap. They indicate the route from below.