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Routes in Mt Stuart

Cascadian Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Girth Pillar 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI2
Gorillas Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gorillas in the Mist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Easy Snow
Ice Cliff Glacier AI2-3 Steep Snow
King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sherpa Glacier T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
South Headwall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stuart Glacier Couloir T WI2 M5
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Ice, Alpine, 9415 ft, Grade V
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,649 total, 35/month
Shared By: Jens K. on Jun 29, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Crux is the three pitches found on the pillar itself.

Location

Found on the Northeast face, high above the ice cliff glacier.

Protection

Ice Gear, rock rack to 3"
Kawika Mau
Olympia, WA
 
Kawika Mau   Olympia, WA
 
Quite the rock (and ice) climb. We got sauced on this bad boy. Some shenanigans went down, and we ended up not retrieving our gear on the crux pitch. This means the next person that climbs this route has hundreds of dollars in cams and alpine draws waiting for them. the number 1 Camelot at the base of the hand crack held a 45-50 foot fall from me hahaha. If you find our gear (or want beta) please give me a call- 360-480-1017. Oct 31, 2017
Laurel Fan
  5.10+ WI1 Mod. Snow
Laurel Fan  
  5.10+ WI1 Mod. Snow
Ah, I just figured the route changed because the route description for the 3 pillar pitches and the 11c rating in Nelson didn't make any sense to me. May 30, 2014
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
The lower north ridge approach to the ice cliff glacier, though not the style of the first ascentionists, is a worthy alternative and safer if later in the season (July forwards generally).

Pitches on the Girth Pillar are obvious and were unaffected by the rockfall.
Pitch 1: Climb the nice but immediately steep handcrack, which jogs right at the top of the crack. Belay on a crappy, tiny ledge.

Pitch 2: Shuffle straight left for about 10 feet to a thin crack. Finger jams lead to a good rest right before the crux. Jam the crack as it shoots out right on decent fingerlocks. There was a fixed stopper mid-crux that made life easier. Continue up the thin hands then hand crack to a better belay ledge.

Pitch 3: Perfect hands on very steep and somewhat dirty rock lead to the top of the pillar. Beware of some very, very large loose blocks.

Pitches 4 - 6?: Mid-5th climbing will lead to the crest just below the false summit of Stuart.

Full-value climbing! Oct 31, 2013
Laurel Fan
  5.10+ WI1 Mod. Snow
Laurel Fan  
  5.10+ WI1 Mod. Snow
For details on the Lower North Ridge variation and the "new" way up the Girth (rockfall has affected the route since the FA), check out Kevin Newell and Eric Wehrly's TR from 2007:

alpineinstitute.com/article…-(grade-v,-511b)-perfect-alpine-rock-on-mt-stewart/ Sep 10, 2013
Shaun Johnson
  5.11- WI2 Steep Snow
Shaun Johnson  
  5.11- WI2 Steep Snow
Anyone planning on climbing the Girth Pillar in the middle or late summer should consider climbing the Lower North Ridge to a large ledge system that leads to the surface of the Ice Cliff Glacier.

This adds more climbing on perfect rock and avoids the often rotten ICG climbing. Aug 19, 2013
I think this post could use a little more information??? Jul 9, 2009