Avg: 3.1 from 49 votes
Routes in Mt Stuart
|Cascadian Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Girth Pillar 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI2|
|Gorillas Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Gorillas in the Mist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Easy Snow|
|Ice Cliff Glacier AI2-3 Steep Snow|
|King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Sherpa Glacier T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b|
|South Headwall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Stuart Glacier Couloir T WI2 M5|
|Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, Grade III|
|FA:||Lex Maxwell, Fred Llewellyn, and John Vertrees|
|Page Views:||12,469 total, 122/month|
|Shared By:||peachy spohn on Jul 29, 2009|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionFrom Ingalls Lake hike the ridge towards Stuart Pass (stay mainly on ridge). When possible cut right across the talus slope and head towards the 2nd prominent gully.
This is the start of the climb, but mainly 3rd and 4th class scrambling will take you all the way to Long John Tower, which is gained by going to the top of the gully and then moving right and down a little into another gully.
The easiest way up to the notch behind Long John Tower is on the right side (see pic.). Once to the notch head almost straight up and then start veering right on ledges. This is mainly 3rd and 4th class and sometimes exposed. Go almost up to the West Horn and traverse around it on a large ledge.
From here, keep moving right until you reach the West Ridge Notch, which is the second prominent notch. Climb up to its right and onto another large ledge that will take you around to the North Side (and the most fun climbing of the route). Climb up and left on the North side on easy fifth class rock and then pull back onto the ridge. From here, climb up to the summit. There are many options (some of which are up to 5.6).
The route can be done with very little technical climbing, but route finding can be confusing at times (although not as bad as many say). The best part of the route comes once you reach the North side and all the way to the top.
Descent: The Cascadian Couloir is the easiest, but lacks any aesthetic qualities. Once you get to the bottom take the Ingalls Creek trail (trail 1215?) back to Ingalls Lake.
LocationHike in from Cle Elum via the Ingalls Way Trail. Drive to Cle Elum, follow signs to Wenatchee, after about 7 miles turn left onto Teanaway River Rd. and follow to its end (about 23 miles).
On hike: At about .5 miles go right at trail split, at about 2.5 miles go left and in about 1.5 miles you will reach the crest of the hike and campsites. Stay left to get to Ingalls Lake, which is about 1.5 miles more.