Gorillas in the Mist
Avg: 3.4 from 9 votes
Routes in Mt Stuart
|Cascadian Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Girth Pillar 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI2|
|Gorillas Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Gorillas in the Mist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Easy Snow|
|Ice Cliff Glacier AI2-3 Steep Snow|
|King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Sherpa Glacier T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b|
|South Headwall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Stuart Glacier Couloir T WI2 M5|
|Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Type:||Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade IV|
|Page Views:||8,934 total, 91/month|
|Shared By:||blakeherrington on Oct 29, 2009|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick|
DescriptionP1 - 5.10+ or 5.11-
Locate obvious hand and finger crack/splitter. A small ledge exists, maybe 15-25 feet above the snow or talus. Follow splitter to ledge, mantle, move right up yellow corner/chimney, and belay.
P2 - 5.9 Move left, up hanging corner, around an arete, up another hanging corner, left around another arete, and hand traverse left to bolted belay ledge.
p3 - 5.10+
Climb face holds up and left to 4" crack and slung flake/horn near large orange roofs. Follow diagonal cracks up and right to the continuation of the big corner. Might be easier in 2 pitches.
P4 - 5.10- Head up and slightly left, past Yosemite-style V-slot and finger cracks/stemming features.
p5 - 5.10 Up and Right on obvious features, past small tree, to belay on long, narrow ledge.
p6 - 5th - Move the belay rightward, well past a large detached flake. It may give the impression that the W. Ridge or top of the wall are very near. It's not.
p7 - climb up and right, mostly easy, with one 5.8ish spot 25' off the ledge. You want to get into a clean, grey, v-slot, chimney/gulley/groove.
p8 -5.8 Step right in the top of the V-groove, and follow the long corner for 60m of awesome 5.8 cracks and corners, even a small roof. Ends on finger cracks on a slab.
p9 - A short thin-hands splitter leads to lower angle ground, and one can keep climbing endless low 5th class to the summit, rappel the wall, or descend the West Ridge/West Ridge Gully.