All Locations > Washington > Central-E Casca… > Stuart-Enchantm… > Mt Stuart

Gorillas in the Mist

Name: Gorillas in the Mist
Rating: 3.2

5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British Easy Snow

Routes in Mt Stuart

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cascadian Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow
	Direct North Ridge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Girth Pillar 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow
	Gorillas Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Gorillas in the Mist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Easy Snow
	Ice Cliff Glacier AI2-3 Steep Snow
	King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	North Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sherpa Glacier T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
	South Headwall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stuart Glacier Couloir T WI2 M4
	Stuart Range Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ulrich's Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow
	West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow

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Type:	Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA:	July 2009
Page Views:	13,538 total · 75/month
Shared By:	blakeherrington on Oct 29, 2009
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

P1 - 5.10+ or 5.11-

Locate obvious hand and finger crack/splitter stsartinf off small ledge. Follow splitter to broad ledge, mantle, move right up yellow corner/chimney, and belay.

P2 - 5.9 Move left, up hanging corner, around an arete, up another hanging corner, left around another arete, and hand traverse left to bolted belay ledge.

p3 - 5.10+

Climb face holds up and left to 4" crack and slung flake/horn near large orange roofs. Follow diagonal cracks up and right to the continuation of the big corner. Might be easier in 2 pitches.

P4 - 5.10- Head up and slightly left, past Yosemite-style V-slot and finger cracks/stemming features.

p5 - 5.10 Up and Right on obvious features, past small tree, to belay on long, narrow ledge.

p6 - 5th - Move the belay rightward, well past a large detached flake. It may give the impression that the W. Ridge or top of the wall are very near. It's not.

p7 - climb up and right, mostly easy, with one 5.8ish spot 25' off the ledge. You want to get into a clean, grey, v-slot, chimney/gulley/groove.

p8 -5.8 Step right in the top of the V-groove, and follow the long corner for 60m of awesome 5.8 cracks and corners, even a small roof. Ends on finger cracks on a slab.

p9 - A short thin-hands splitter leads to lower angle ground, and one can keep climbing endless low 5th class to the summit, rappel the wall, or descend the West Ridge/West Ridge Gully.

Location

Midway between Stuart Pass and Goat Pass, a large amphitheater/wall of rock rises up from the snow. Locate a splitter hand crack (begins as twin cracks) which is slightly rightward from a spot below large orange overhangs, encountered on pitch #3.