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Routes in Mt Stuart

Cascadian Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Girth Pillar 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI2
Gorillas Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gorillas in the Mist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Easy Snow
Ice Cliff Glacier AI2-3 Steep Snow
King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sherpa Glacier T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
South Headwall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stuart Glacier Couloir T WI2 M5
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Paul Myhre & Darrell Sorenson 1966
Page Views: 1,639 total · 23/month
Shared By: J. Thornton on Apr 11, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

Access is the same as the other south-side routes, with the Long's Pass Trail being most often used. Be sure to examine the south routes from Long's Pass and take pictures, as you will have an excellent view of the south side of this massive mountain. Camping is good near Ingalls Creek after descending the trail from Long's Pass, but watch out for the hungry mice at night stealing your food.

Several thousand feet of steep scree, choss, and a few sections of 3rd class terrain are encountered getting up to the base of South Headwall, sometimes with loose rock and sandy conditions. I did a lot of this kind of stuff in the Sierra Nevada mountains as a kid (and lately too) so I am used to it and have a high tolerance for endless scree choss. It isn't too bad here, and is certainly no worse than Cascadian. Beckey's guidebook has a very good description of the approach and route. This is a sunny route on sunny days.

From Ingalls Creek trail hike up the first major clearing west of Ulrich's Couloir (this clearing will be west of where the Long's Pass Trail crosses Ingalls Creek where you join the Ingalls Creek trail). You will soon enter the West Ridge couloir, which will suddenly angle rightward. At about the 7000-foot elevation, at the fork, take the right couloir (traversing into it beneath black slabs) which has tall cliffs on its right side. Follow this to the cirque with very steep cliffs at about 8700 feet. The technical pitches (never harder than 5.7) start up the center of the headwall and head a bit leftward to the upper South Rib which is followed rightward toward the summit.

Two 20- or 30-foot sections of 5.7 with decent pro placements available were encountered, and lots of 4th Class and low 5th Class terrain in the 4 or 5 technical pitches. The route has ledges available for belay stations for every pitch.

'It's a long way to the top, if you wanna rock'n'rolllll' - quote from a famous rock band.

Location

It is a long scramble up to the South Headwall, which can easily be seen just below the summit on the south side. This steep cliff (not vertical) is several hundred feet tall. The climber tops out very near and southwest of the summit.

Protection

Cams, Stoppers, some long slings. No fixed gear was seen back in 1996.

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