Type: Trad, Snow, Alpine, 2800 ft, Grade III
FA: Bill & Gene Prater, Don & Nelson Torrey
Page Views: 2,193 total · 33/month
Shared By: blakeherrington on Jul 11, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The Sherpa Glacier is the left-most of Stuart's 3 north-side glaciers. It is also the easiest to climb and descend. The glacier and long curving snow gully above form a classic ski route from Stuart's summit ridge, and offer the peak's best early-season descent. From atop the snow, simple class 3 scrambling leads along the ridge to the summit.

Location

Just left of the Ice Cliff Arete and left of the Ice cliff glacier, on the NE flank of Mt. Stuart. - best approached via Mountaineers Creek Trailhead.

Protection

Most will just solo the route. From early summer onward, the route gets increasingly difficult so consider more gear based upon current conditions for rappeling and climbing broken glacial snow.

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