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Routes in Mt Stuart
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Cascadian Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow |
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Direct North Ridge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Girth Pillar 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow |
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Gorillas Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gorillas in the Mist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Easy Snow |
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Ice Cliff Glacier AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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North Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sherpa Glacier T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow |
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South Headwall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Stuart Glacier Couloir T WI2 M4 |
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Stuart Range Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ulrich's Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow |
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West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 2800 ft (848 m), Grade III |
| FA: | Bill & Gene Prater, Don & Nelson Torrey (1956) |
| Page Views: | 4,334 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | blakeherrington on Jul 11, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
The Sherpa Glacier is the left-most of Stuart's 3 north-side glaciers. It is also the easiest to climb and descend. The glacier and long curving snow gully above form a classic ski route from Stuart's summit ridge, and offer the peak's best early-season descent. From atop the snow, simple class 3 scrambling leads along the ridge to the summit.
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