Elevation: 9,415 ft
GPS: 47.477, -120.902 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 162,406 total · 960/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Jul 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

Description

The second highest non-volcanic mountain in Washington state, located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area. The North Ridge climb on Mt. Suart is one of the 50 North American Classic Climbs. Very beautiful mountain with high relative elevation of 5,335ft and serious approaches. The easiest way to get to the top (and off the mountain) is from the south via the Cascadian Couloir. The nearby Ingalls Peak, which is to the west of Mt. Stuart has some interesting climbing as well.

Getting There

To approach Mt. Stuart from the south, take 970 from Cle Elum for about 11 miles and turn left into Teanaway Road. After about 14 miles Teanaway Road splits into North and West Fork Teanaway. Take the North Fork Teanaway Road to the trailhead parking lot at its end. Hike up Ingalls Way trail. At the second junction at 5600', take Longs Pass trail for Cascadian Couloir, or continue on Ingalls Way for Ingalls Lake, Mt. Stuart's West and North Ridges and go over Ingalls Pass.

For West and North Ridge, traverse Ingalls Lake in its west side, drop down to the meadows and ascent the faint trail onto Stuart Pass. From here find a way through talus to the shoulder below West Ridge and continue to Goat Pass.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt Stuart

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI2 M4
 8
Stuart Glacier Couloir
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 6 pitches
AI2-3 Steep Snow
 14
Ice Cliff Glacier
Ice, Snow, Alpine
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow
 27
Cascadian Couloir
Trad, Snow, Alpine
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
 16
Sherpa Glacier
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow
 95
West Ridge
Trad, Snow, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 98
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme
Trad, Alpine 18 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 186
The Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme
Trad, Alpine 20 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 5
Gorillas Direct
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow
 8
Girth Pillar
Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Easy Snow
 11
Gorillas in the Mist
Trad, Snow, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Stuart Glacier Couloir
 8
WI2 M4 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 6 pitches
Ice Cliff Glacier
 14
AI2-3 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine
Cascadian Couloir
 27
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Sherpa Glacier
 16
4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
West Ridge
 95
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine
Upper North Ridge w/Great G…
 98
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 18 pitches
The Direct North Ridge w/ G…
 186
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 20 pitches
Gorillas Direct
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Girth Pillar
 8
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine 3 pitches
Gorillas in the Mist
 11
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Easy Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Mt Stuart »

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