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Mt Stuart Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Mt Stuart

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cascadian Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow
	Direct North Ridge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Girth Pillar 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow
	Gorillas Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Gorillas in the Mist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Easy Snow
	Ice Cliff Glacier AI2-3 Steep Snow
	King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	North Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sherpa Glacier T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow
	South Headwall T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Stuart Glacier Couloir T WI2 M4
	Stuart Range Traverse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Ulrich's Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Mod. Snow
	West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Steep Snow

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Elevation:	9,415 ft
GPS:	47.4773, -120.9022 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Kris Gorny on Jul 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The second highest non-volcanic mountain in Washington state, located in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness area. The North Ridge climb on Mt. Stuart is one of the 50 North American Classic Climbs. Very beautiful mountain with high relative elevation of 5,335ft and serious approaches. The easiest way to get to the top (and off the mountain) is from the south via the Cascadian Couloir. The nearby Ingalls Peak, which is to the west of Mt. Stuart has some interesting climbing as well.

Getting There

To approach Mt. Stuart from the south, take 970 from Cle Elum for about 11 miles and turn left into Teanaway Road. After about 14 miles Teanaway Road splits into North and West Fork Teanaway. Take the North Fork Teanaway Road to the trailhead parking lot at its end. Hike up Ingalls Way trail. At the second junction at 5600', take Longs Pass trail for Cascadian Couloir, or continue on Ingalls Way for Ingalls Lake, Mt. Stuart's West and North Ridges and go over Ingalls Pass.

For West and North Ridge, traverse Ingalls Lake in its west side, drop down to the meadows and ascent the faint trail onto Stuart Pass. From here find a way through talus to the shoulder below West Ridge and continue to Goat Pass.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt Stuart

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

WI2 M4 9 ● Stuart Glacier Couloir Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 131 ● North Ridge Trad, Alpine 18 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 279 ● Direct North Ridge Trad, Alpine 20 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c WI2 Steep Snow 8 ● Girth Pillar Ice, Snow, Alpine 11 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Easy Snow 15 ● Gorillas in the Mist Trad, Snow, Alpine 9 pitches