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Routes in Mt Stuart

Cascadian Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Girth Pillar 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI2
Gorillas Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gorillas in the Mist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Easy Snow
Ice Cliff Glacier AI2-3 Steep Snow
King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sherpa Glacier T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
South Headwall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stuart Glacier Couloir T WI2 M5
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 8 pitches
FA: Sol Wertkin, Jens Holsten, Mark Westman - August 2011
Page Views: 263 total, 20/month
Shared By: Sol Wertkin on Oct 25, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Gorillas Direct begins on the original four pitches of Gorillas in the Mist before moving L (GITM moves R) on the major ledge system splitting the wall. At the end of P6 it moves L to a rampy belay while King Kong moves R and finishes direct via the steep headwall. The route in it's entirety is described here

Please refer to the link to the blogpost at the bottom of this description for complete details on the history of these routes and lots of photos.

P1 - 5.10+ Begin up the obvious hand and finger crack/splitter, starting on a small ledge 15-25 feet above the snow or talus accessed by a short scramble. From the mantle above the splitter move past a tree onto another ledge and up a short corner to a chimney then the belay (beta: from the ledge above the mantle clip into the tat around a tree and use the extra rope to hand-haul shoes/jackets/water). 40m

P2 - 5.9+ Move L, up hanging corners, around multiple aretes, to a short wide au cheval. Continue up then L through an exposed crack traverse, skip the bolted belay and continue moving L on a slab to a short face crux before continuing L to belay at a large slung pillar (some may split this up into two pitches due to rope management). 55m

P3 - 5.10- "The Monkey Traverse." Move up the corner of the pillar eventually launching up and R traversing an exposed horizontal crack. Belay at the end of the traverse on a large slopey ledge. 20m

P4 - 5.9 Head up, then slightly L into a V-slot. Continue up moving first L then R then back L via finger cracks and stemming features. Be careful with rope management. Belay at the large midway ledge of the wall. 60m (the original Gorillas in the Mist heads R a full rope length from this midway ledge to moderate 5.8 cracks).

P5 - 5.10 Move the belay 25 ft L to the base of the striking corner crack. An initial crux off the ground leads to the aesthetic corner which is followed to a good belay ledge. 30m

P6 - 5.10+ Climb up the stouter then it appears short corner crack manteling to a good ledge. Continue up the crack onto a slab. Eventually making a R to L traverse with sparse pro before continuing up a corner crack and finishing just L at a rampy belay. 55m

P7 - Continue L on a fun 10- traversing finger crack leading to the major corner system out L with numerous belay ledges.

P8-10 - Follow the corner for 2-3 pitches with the occasional 5.10 step eventually moving R on easy ground to the top of the headwall. Take great care navigating much loose rock on the final traverse back R above the headwall.

Continue up the W Ridge to the summit or descend down the lower W Ridge. The quickest descent down follows the main gully of the W Ridge via scrambling and down-climbing before being able to break skier's R on a large bench. Make a single rope rappel from fixed tat. Continue downclimbing until moving skier's R via the 2nd break in the main ridge out R. Continue downclimbing via easing terrain to the bivy sites at Stuart Pass.

Details of the first ascents of Gorillas in the Mist, Gorillas Direct, and King Kong can be found on my blog here:

http://solclimbs.blogspot.com/2016/10/first-ascent-king-kong-joe-puryear.html

Location

Splitter crack on the West Face Wall between Goat and Stuart Pass.

Protection

Standard alpine trad rack: single blue alien/purple TCU, dbls from green alien to #2, single #3, #4. Single set of nuts.

Photos

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