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Routes in Mt Stuart

Cascadian Couloir T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Direct North Ridge w/ Gendarme, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Girth Pillar 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a WI2 Steep Snow
Gorillas Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gorillas in the Mist T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Easy Snow
Ice Cliff Glacier AI2-3 Steep Snow
King Kong - Gorillas Direct Direct T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sherpa Glacier T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
South Headwall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stuart Glacier Couloir T WI2 M5
Upper North Ridge w/Great Gendarme T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft, Grade III
FA: Bill & Gene Prater, Dave Mahre - August 1957
Page Views: 2,186 total · 46/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Mar 26, 2014 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

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Description

The route begins from the moraine just below the North Ridge. Traverse under the cliff at 6,600 feet and pick your route up the ice fall on either the extreme left or right side. In early season, the left side appears to be easier, with short ice sections around AI2. In late season, a 5.8 slab pitch on the right may prove easier.

From above the ice fall, follow the path of least resistance through the cirque, heading for the upper couloir. The bergschrund is typically passed on the climber's right side of the gully. Continue up the ~50-degree gully and take the right fork near the top. Surmount the cornice and you'll pull onto the South-facing ridge just below the false summit at about 8,600 feet.

Traverse under the false summit to the South and then tag the summit at 9,415 feet.

Retrace your steps back down from the summit, around the false summit, and descend the Sherpa Glacier, located just to the East of the exit of the Ice Cliff Glacier couloir, starting at about 8,200 feet.

Protection

1-4 screws, pickets, small rock rack in late season

Location

From the Stuart Lake Trailhead (approached via the ~4-mile road in early season), take the main trial to the first fork and stay right for Stuart Lake. Drop down to the creek when possible after about a quarter mile. The climbers' trail leaves the Stuart trail at 47.49742degN, 120.86218degW. If you don't find the climbers trail, simply pick your way across the snow towards Stuart, which should be in full view by this point.

Stay East of Mountaineers Ridge and eventually ascend either talus or moderately steep snow to the upper valley and campsites below the Sherpa glacier at 5,400 feet.

The Ice Cliff Glacier sits between the Sherpa Glacier and the classic North Ridge.

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