AI2-3 Steep Snow
Avg: 3.1 from 14 votes
|Type:||Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), Grade III|
|FA:||Bill & Gene Prater, Dave Mahre - August 1957|
|Page Views:||4,635 total · 51/month|
|Shared By:||Jeff Hebert on Mar 26, 2014 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
From above the ice fall, follow the path of least resistance through the cirque, heading for the upper couloir. The bergschrund is typically passed on the climber's right side of the gully. Continue up the ~50-degree gully and take the right fork near the top. Surmount the cornice and you'll pull onto the South-facing ridge just below the false summit at about 8,600 feet.
Traverse under the false summit to the South and then tag the summit at 9,415 feet.
Retrace your steps back down from the summit, around the false summit, and descend the Sherpa Glacier, located just to the East of the exit of the Ice Cliff Glacier couloir, starting at about 8,200 feet.
Stay East of Mountaineers Ridge and eventually ascend either talus or moderately steep snow to the upper valley and campsites below the Sherpa glacier at 5,400 feet.
The Ice Cliff Glacier sits between the Sherpa Glacier and the classic North Ridge.