We're hiring an experienced designer to join us in Boulder, CO.
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (v) North Face

Break Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bunny Slope T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cat's Cave Inn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cats Meow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Decapitation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Graham Crackers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greasy Kid Stuff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Guillotine, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harm's Way T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hillside Strangler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Innominate II T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kitty Litter Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Murders T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Obscured by Clouds T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Obscured by Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Peer Pressure T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shine On T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Superfluous Bolt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tabby Treat T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Tangled Up in Blue T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Alan Bartlett, 1970's
Page Views: 168 total · 2/month
Shared By: Adam Kimmerly on May 26, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb thin cracks and flakes up the slab between the Guillotine and Graham Crackers to a short fist crack ending 80' up. Here the difficulties begin with a tough-to-protect seam (bring micro-nuts), then a horizontal with a shallow blue Alien sized pin scar, and 20' of slab (crux) to the rap anchor. The upper slab is a bit contrived, avoiding a short traverse left to easier, more featured rock. Climb up the center of the slab for full effect.

Location

Rappel the route with a 70m or two ropes, or climb easier terrain to the top and walk off.

Protection

Nuts and small cams for the bottom, then a #3 or #4 Camalot for the fist crack, and micronuts and a blue Alien (or equivalent) to protect the runout to the top.

Photos

- No Photos -
Climbing straight up the center of the blank slab from the pin scar seemed like the coolest line, but also the hardest and felt more like 10b/c. Moving slightly right looked like it may have been a tad easier with better looking dishes to smear in. Moving left looked easy and off-route. Clark Jacobs indicated that there used to be a fixed pin in the horizontal to protect the runout at the top. The pin is gone and the scar was full of dirt. Once cleaned out, it took a relatively good blue Alien which probably would have held a fall from the crux. If not, it would have been a LONG ride down to the last good piece! May 26, 2009
Tradiban  
 
Maybe a green C3 will work in the upper horizontal. Sep 17, 2014
dnaiscool  
 
I stabbed a "0" TCU (the purple one) in where that top pin once was, and in my notes I called this a "MUST HAVE" piece for that placement. This route is not for the trembling leader. The rest of my rack: #.75-3 Camalot (one each); .5-4 Tricam; #3-5 Steelnut; #4-10 Stopper; #1,2 TCU...and...hold the phone...a #3 Loweball!! Mar 23, 2015

More About Greasy Kid Stuff

Printer-Friendly