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Routes in (v) North Face

Break Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bunny Slope T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cat's Cave Inn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cats Meow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Decapitation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Graham Crackers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greasy Kid Stuff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Guillotine, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harm's Way T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hillside Strangler T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Innominate II T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
June Gloom variation T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kitty Litter Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Murders T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Obscured by Clouds T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Obscured by Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Peer Pressure T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shine On T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Superfluous Bolt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tabby Treat T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Tangled Up in Blue T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Graham, Tobin Sorenson & Gib Lewis, 1974
Page Views: 1,752 total · 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jan 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

P1) Start about 20' right of some large flakes leaning against the wall (The Guillotine) and climb smooth face up past an overlap (.75 cam) to a bolt shared with Superfluous Bolt, and then continue up and right to another small roof/overlap. Load up the overlap with gear (.65"-1") and then make crimpy moves over the roof (5.10d) to reach a stance and another bolt. Continue past one more bolt (5.9) to reach a bolted belay. Note - it's a 100' rap straight to the ground from this anchor.

P2) Climb unprotected friction moves off the belay to a small flake up and left (thin pro) and then run it out to the top; fortunately the angle quickly kicks back and the climbing, while runout, is much easier.

  • Climbers comfortable at this grade will find this to be an enjoyable and high quality route that seldom sees much traffic. The name of the route is that of a 1972 Pink Floyd album that also was the soundtrack to La Vallee, a French film.

Protection

3 bolts, anchor (all 3/8"), gear to 2.5" (mainly thin),

Photos

Yes we listened to Pink Floyd back then and it may have influenced the name some. The real story is, a fog rolled in while I was leading the first pitch. For a good portion of the Pitch I couldn’t see Tobin or Gib below. It was quite eerie.

You should be able to avoid the bolt on “Superfluous Bolt” but by all means let your comfort level guide you. Apr 18, 2008
usetob
Visalia, Ca.
 
usetob   Visalia, Ca.
 
Classic suicide line. scary as hell first time, seems like your wandering around up there.. May 5, 2008
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
Making the move over the roof was pretty hard. I couldn't come up with a graceful way to do it, instead I pretty much just clawed and scraped my way up it. This might actually be easier for short people, since using the only decent holds left me all scrunched up. May 19, 2008
aaack. The "shared" bolt on superfluous should be ignored if doing the route in the same style as the FA party did. However, it does make it a little more "sporty" getting to the second overlap. Clip it or skip it, your call. Keep in mind though that it wasn't/isn't really part of Obscured. Sep 17, 2009
Souljah
Northern NM
 
Souljah   Northern NM
 
Turned the crux , made the clip , blacked-out. Next thing I knew I was on top.

Superfluous ? Bolt ? What bolt ??? Aug 16, 2011
Tradiban  
 
Soft 10d. I got on some perfect white crimps above the roof and just stood up, it's a little run from there to the next bolt. For P2 some small nuts are good for the flake, then I went up and slightly left to clip the last bolt of Shine On. Seemed like the most likely line that way but I'm sure there was no bolt on the FA. Oct 10, 2016

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