Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (v) North Face

Break Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bunny Slope T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cat's Cave Inn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cats Meow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Decapitation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Graham Crackers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greasy Kid Stuff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Guillotine, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harm's Way T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hillside Strangler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Innominate II T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kitty Litter Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Murders T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Obscured by Clouds T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Obscured by Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Peer Pressure T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shine On T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Superfluous Bolt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tabby Treat T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Tangled Up in Blue T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Howard Chuntz, 1979
Page Views: 320 total, 3/month
Shared By: Mark L on Jul 16, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


11 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb up the vertical seam and cross up and left to the next left leaning seam until reaching a larger crack about 40' up. The first 20' are probably the crux. It is easy to blow it early by putting your gear where your fingers need to go.

Continue up the larger crack to a few liebacks on the left of flakes. At about 100' and then go right on a little ledge to belay.

P2 take any upward direction on easy (4th/easy 5.0) terrain for about 150'.

Location

This route is 2 exfoliation slabs right of Peer Pressure. On the slab you will see a thin vertical seam with a few small nut placements that goes up about 15', with a horizontal seam near the top on the left and another crack starting up and left from the horizontal seam.

Protection

Have some very small nuts (#3 or #4 BD) and cams (00, 0, 0 TCUs) for the first 40' or so. After that .5-3" with gear belay of 1-3" on the ledge.

Photos

Tradiban  
 
Tricky start but it soon eases up, really small cams helpful, I put in the red x4 and purple C3. 2 hours ago
dnaiscool  
 
"R" rated for sure...I've witnessed a severe ankle turn by someone who had both a solid belay and as much pro as you can get in, but the fall was just at grounder height and the ramping nature of the stone low down hooked the guy's sticky rubber boots. This is not a lead for the budding 5.9 climber. Pro: #1 & 2 RP for start, then have on hand a double set of thin wireds, like a set of RPs #1-4 and a set of stoppers #1-4; double #1 & 2 Camalots plus some medium Hexes for the rest. I thought the route was, like, 5.9d. Aug 12, 2014
alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.9 R
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.9 R
I feel the R is warranted. I was able to get decent pro down low, but making the committing moves left I was well above my last solid piece, I did get a nut in after said cam, but it was dubious at best...if it would have blown there would have definitely been ground fall potential...the 5.8 lieback/arch up higher is awesome and easier than it looks Apr 21, 2014
The first accent was lead by Howard Chuntz. Richard Coplin actually found the route and gave it to me as the present he'd promised me. The year was 1979. Jun 2, 2011
Mark L
 
Mark L  
 
The book rates this as an R climb but if you have several thin pieces I dont see why. Definitely exhilirating for a 5.9 leader and a little pumpy. Jul 17, 2007