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Routes in (v) North Face

Break Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bunny Slope T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cat's Cave Inn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cats Meow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Decapitation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Graham Crackers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greasy Kid Stuff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Guillotine, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harm's Way T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hillside Strangler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Innominate II T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kitty Litter Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Murders T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Obscured by Clouds T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Obscured by Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Peer Pressure T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shine On T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Superfluous Bolt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tabby Treat T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Tangled Up in Blue T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Allen Steck and Chuck Wilts, October 1969
Page Views: 4,205 total, 29/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Some fun, easy liebacking on large, sharp flakes (including the guillotine flake) takes you up a right-facing corner. Climb up into a short, well-protected squeeze chimney (crux) and struggle up to a comfortable belay. Runout but easy (5.5) friction moves take you to the top of the rock. Walk off to the right. Some people have avoided the squeeze chimney by a committing, very runout lieback. Done this way, the climb deserves an "R."

Protection

standard rack with a few larger pieces

Photos

Kyle vH
 
Kyle vH  
 
Very aesthetic climb on imposing looking rock. We stayed in the chimney with excellent pro in a perfect hand crack. It is awkward but good rests and exciting as you traverse out/leave the chimney. Really unique. Done this way the crux seems to be exiting the chimney near the top, still with excellent pro.

Consider rapping from the bolted station. We went to the top via a 20ft run out 5.5 dike above solid gear (out right). But its basically unmemorable 5.2 after that. Jogging left to Graham Cracker would be more fun.

We hauled up 1#3, triples #2 and #1, and doubles below to sew it up. Eats cams. Sep 4, 2017
Watched some guy take a big whip on this climb years and years ago. He swung right into the flake. Don't know the extent of his injuries but he was messed up. My partner Todd and I ran and got the litter. Glad there were a bunch of other folks there to do first aid. And we all helped with a carry out. Aug 10, 2014
Nikki S
Cleveland, Ohio
 
Nikki S   Cleveland, Ohio
 
Fun liebacking--and good varied climbing the whole way. Doesn't feel run out. Not plentiful pro--but sufficient. Rapped with a 70m from the slung tree (or bolts?--can't remember)at the top. Feb 20, 2013
Super fun liebacking that I don't feel is as dangerous as the guidebook suggests. I plugged a #3 in the base of the chimney before committing to the "runout" lieback which is really only about 15'-20' before the next piece. I'll downgrade the danger rating on this one to a PG-13. While you can't place gear at every point on the route, I feel the available placements adequately protect the route. Regardless, this wouldn't be a good first 5.8 for a budding leader. May 26, 2009