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Routes in (v) North Face

Break Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bunny Slope T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cat's Cave Inn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cats Meow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Decapitation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Graham Crackers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greasy Kid Stuff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Guillotine, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harm's Way T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hillside Strangler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Innominate II T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kitty Litter Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Murders T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Obscured by Clouds T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Obscured by Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Peer Pressure T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shine On T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Superfluous Bolt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tabby Treat T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Tangled Up in Blue T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,424 total, 11/month
Shared By: Mark L on Jul 22, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Nice climb with a bit of lie backing, a small bit of face and a few moves of offwidth.

Start by getting the first thin cam under the left angling flake and then you can face climb to the right of the piece and over it to get onto the left side of the flake.

Follow the flake system up, always staying left of new flakes/overlaps via some liebacks until getting under a wide section about 80' up. You can get a 1/2-3/4" piece deep inside to protect and then OW up the next few moves to a good handhold. Alternatively if you don't like groveling there are holds around the top of the small roof but it is much less secure.

Pulling over that last roof, if you have a 50/60m rope then go up and right about 15' to set a belay (100'). With a 70 meter you can go up and right a few feet, sling a small horn sticking out of the rock and climb easy 5th solution pockets to a small crack for gear another 10' up then easy 4th/5th up trending right until about 15' below where it levels off. Belay from there. Rope drag will be some what strong but your on easy ground.

Location

About 10' left of The Thin Man. Follows the left most flake/overlap of a series of overlaps.

Protection

Thin gear (down to 00 TCU) for the first 40', then normal sizes

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alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.8
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.8
Not R rated at all. A committing move off the deck thats quickly over and leads to good pro Apr 21, 2014
Gavin Bridgeman
Tustin, California
Gavin Bridgeman   Tustin, California
Fun... From what I remember thin gear was useful Oct 12, 2013
tom donnelly
san diego
 
tom donnelly   san diego
 
In my opinion the face move at the start is the crux and the pro is somewhat questionable.
It's about 95 feet to a good belay where you can toprope some other routes.
Great rock. Jun 10, 2008
Mark L
 
Mark L  
 
I dont know why there is an R rating in the book for this climb. If anything maybe PG-13 for 2 moves. It is possible but perhaps unlikely that a fall after placing the first piece before putting in the second piece could possibly result in hitting your feet on the rock. By going right from the first piece under the flake and traversing up and left to the edge of the flake seemed like a couple of 5.6 face moves. If the belayer is paying attention and ready to pull in a little rope if you slip, a fall probably wouldn't result in anything. The offwidth section was the one part where the climbing is more difficult and you dont want to slip, and you are a good 8-10' above your last piece before you might be able o get a good hold. Jul 22, 2007