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Routes in (v) North Face

Break Out T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bunny Slope T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cat's Cave Inn T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cats Meow T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Decapitation T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Graham Crackers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Greasy Kid Stuff T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Guillotine, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Harm's Way T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hillside Strangler T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Innominate II T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Kitty Litter Variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Murders T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Obscured by Clouds T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Obscured by Time T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Peer Pressure T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shine On T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Superfluous Bolt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Tabby Treat T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Tangled Up in Blue T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Thin Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unnamed Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Yours T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ivan Couch, Mike Cohen, and Mike Dent
Page Views: 1,018 total, 7/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jan 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

My strongest memory of this climb is its serious runout (and I was following)! Down low, it's tricky but well protected. Then you head up a long, thin left-facing flake system with no gear. The crux move at the top of the flake can be protected (sort of) with a small wired nut. Pitch 2 is short and easy. Walk off right to descend.

Protection

2 bolts, plus small to medium gear

Photos

dnaiscool  
 
Back in '91 there was a route sandwiched between this and The Guillotine. It follows that very thin right facing flake system. I led it back then, thinking the difficulties to be .11b at the upper bolt. It started at 5.9+ and its own blot lower down. Anybody know the name of this? It was sorta scary, and I was glad the bolt was there to protect the crux.
I wrote "#2 Loweball" in my guide as pro in the runout section. Mar 23, 2015
The bolt mentioned that is out to the right is on Shine On, the straight up continuation of Obscured By Clouds. When the previous comments were made Shine On was still unfinished, which is no longer true. Sep 17, 2009
I didn't think the pro on this route was really that bad. PG, maybe, but definitely not deserving of an R rating. The only sketchy pro section was the easy climbing in the thin flakes before reaching the dihedral where the second bolt is. Careful placement of smaller gear should hold any short fall you might take there. Regardless, interesting climbing the whole way, and a worthwhile route.

I wonder if the "superfluous bolt" is the one on the slab to the climber's right about 2/3 of the way up the dihedral. I haven't been able to figure out what route that's on... if any at all. Aug 3, 2009
Fun aesthetic climbing, wish the dihedral was longer..
nice belay stance...

Hard to protect at spots. bring some small gear.....

Does anyone have any of the history on the name? I found all the bolts on this route to be necessary..... Jul 19, 2009
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a PG13
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
  5.10a PG13
There are a total of two bolts on this route, and I have to admit that I didn't think that either were superfluous! Only "trick" gear I placed were a couple smaller offset nuts. May 19, 2008
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
  5.10a
This climb requires small protection. I made use of a black alien which I usually try to avoid and another in that range would have been used if I had it. Bring all of your trick small gear. Micro nuts and offset small cams will be helpful although not necessary. Skill in gear placement can make this climb safe by Suicide standards but don't make this your first trad lead. Bring up to 2" gear.

Make sure to study the topo. For a while I thought I was supposed to go onto a 10d R face climb to the left of the route and I was getting worried. Then I saw the next bolt of Superfluous Bolt (camoflauged) above my head and realized that was the way to go.

There are at least two bolts on this climb, all of high quality. Mar 18, 2007