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Routes in The Great Wall

Bitter Ray of Sunshine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buccaneer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynabolt Gold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge-a-Sketch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glory and Consequence S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Escalada S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ledgends of Limonite S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ledgends of Limonite (direct start) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little T-Bone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Momma Cindy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ohio Arts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Touch of Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Weapons of Mass Deception T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jared Hancock, Karla Carandang, 2004
Page Views: 4,381 total, 42/month
Shared By: Adam Leedy on May 4, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


226 Opinions

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Description

Hardest moves are down low figuring out the start. Depending on height there are a couple different variations. Shorter people usually find it easier to start farther right on the overhang or jumping to the good hold just out of reach. After clipping the first bolt it is more like 9+ all the way to the anchors. Big holds and lots of rests if needed.

Location

Starts just left of the mixed line Little T-Bone.

Protection

Seven bolts, bolted anchors.
S. Neoh  
The direct start, w/o a stick clip is .10- up to about 5 feet off the ground. It is .9/.9+ the rest of the way to the anchor. By direct start I mean use the obvious sidepull/undercling on the right, about four feet off the ground, and go more or less straight up for a couple more feet until you gain good hand holds. From there, traverse left with feet on the ledge, then climb around the bulge on its left to clip the 1st bolt. I am 5'5" and have zero ape index and this way felt .10-. Nov 12, 2015
kenr  
Stick-clipping the first bolt seemed pretty difficult, because the shape of the rock below it makes it hard to get a suitable angle with the stick, and for the similar cause it's hard to see the bolt when you get close enough to the rock.

So today instead Karl stick-clipped the first bolt on Bitter Ray of Sunshine route to the left of Dynabolt Gold, yarded up (since he had climbed the tricky mantle earlier in the day). Then scrambled up diagonal right to the first bolt on Diagonal Gold, put a draw on it, clipped his rope to that. Down-climbed back left to the bolt on Bitter Ray, removed that, traversed right under the Dynabolt first bolt now with quickdraw, and lowered off to the ground. Nov 12, 2015
This is a FUN route! I'm 5'3-1/2" tall, I used the side pull and a heel hook for the start, no problem. After that, the route is a dream. Very enjoyable. May 28, 2014