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Routes in The Great Wall

Bitter Ray of Sunshine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buccaneer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynabolt Gold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge-a-Sketch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glory and Consequence S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Escalada S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ledgends of Limonite S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ledgends of Limonite (direct start) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little T-Bone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Momma Cindy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ohio Arts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Touch of Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Weapons of Mass Deception T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: J.J., Jared Hancock
Page Views: 819 total, 9/month
Shared By: TomCaldwell on Oct 7, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Begin in a dihedral to the left of the main Great Wall climbing area. On the right side wall is a finger crack leading to a roof. Start up the dirty dihedral to get to the finger crack. Follow the crack to the roof (crux) and traverse left and up to reach the left facing flake. Follow the left facing flake to a small roof with a hand crack. Move onto the face and up the short hand crack to the anchor.

This route does not see much traffic and is often dirty and covered with large spiders.

Location

At the left side of the Great Wall. Make a left when the trail meets the wall. Look for the dihedral with finger crack in it. Rap with a single 60m rope.

Protection

TCU's to #3 C4 camalot, nuts and tricams wouldn't hurt. A few shoulder slings for the traverse. Fixed cam in the flake section. Rap anchors at the top.

Photos

Rebecca Li
Providence, RI
 
Rebecca Li   Providence, RI
 
Despite the foliage on the first half, the route itself looks super fun from the ground. However, the spiders under the roof are serious business. Don't get bitten by one of those! Sep 18, 2017
highneed
  5.9
highneed  
  5.9
Take a spider wand in the summer. Took a leg shredding whipper swatting at a monster wolf spider. Also the climb is just dirty and absorbs humidity. Sep 7, 2016
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
The new guidebook downgraded the stars from four to two for good reason. Oct 7, 2010