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Routes in The Great Wall

Bitter Ray of Sunshine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buccaneer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynabolt Gold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge-a-Sketch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glory and Consequence S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Escalada S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ledgends of Limonite S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ledgends of Limonite (direct start) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little T-Bone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Momma Cindy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ohio Arts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Touch of Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Weapons of Mass Deception T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: J.J. - 2004
Page Views: 2,574 total · 25/month
Shared By: Adam Beck on Jan 22, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Thin crimpers and long reaches! There is a plate below this route labeling "Ohio Arts" (5.12b). This is actually the 3-bolt pitch right above Edge-a-Sketch.


Near the center of the wall.


8 bolts


- No Photos -
This route is over rated at 11a. 11b is silly. Apr 13, 2012
Gif Zafred
Pittsburgh, PA
Gif Zafred   Pittsburgh, PA
A soft 11a May 23, 2012
BCA   michigan
another vote for soft. good movements though, and a fun start! Aug 11, 2012
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
Most fun route on this section of cliff that I did, especially the start. Great for early 11 leaders. It's soft. Just stick clip it and give it a go. Jun 11, 2014
Are you people crazy? I'm sick of the sandbags. This could possibly be soft at 11b but it's solid 11- Oct 30, 2014
Adam Beck
Nashville, TN
Adam Beck   Nashville, TN
I think the rating is congruent with Muir Valley ratings. May 5, 2015
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
This is a really great line. 11a I would say (especially if you don't stick clip the bottom) but you are out of the hard moves right away. Probably more like 10c/d the rest of the way if you like slabby stuff.

I would suggest stick clipping this though, the bottom is a bit tough. Jun 30, 2015
S. Neoh
S. Neoh  
Very good route. Stick clip recommended. .11a seems fair but the top 1/3 is much easier than .11a. Oct 26, 2015
Jacob Sustrich
Jacob Sustrich  
Note: consider stick clipping the second bolt - I found the moves up to it pretty tough and although the clipping hold is good, it would put you in grounder territory. May 31, 2016
Patti Degner
Patti Degner  
A fun V2/3 boulder problem leads to technical, vertical climbing that gradually lets up after the 4th or 5th bolt. Very fun climb. Consider stick-clipping the first or second bolt. Oct 17, 2016

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