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Routes in The Great Wall

Bitter Ray of Sunshine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Buccaneer S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dynabolt Gold S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Edge-a-Sketch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Glory and Consequence S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
La Escalada S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ledgends of Limonite S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ledgends of Limonite (direct start) S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little T-Bone T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Momma Cindy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ohio Arts S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Touch of Grey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Weapons of Mass Deception T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: J.J. - 2004
Page Views: 2,293 total, 24/month
Shared By: Adam Beck on Jan 22, 2010
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

Thin crimpers and long reaches! There is a plate below this route labeling "Ohio Arts" (5.12b). This is actually the 3-bolt pitch right above Edge-a-Sketch.

Location

Near the center of the wall.

Protection

8 bolts

Photos

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Patti Degner
  5.11a
Patti Degner  
  5.11a
A fun V2/3 boulder problem leads to technical, vertical climbing that gradually lets up after the 4th or 5th bolt. Very fun climb. Consider stick-clipping the first or second bolt. Oct 17, 2016
Jacob Sustrich
  5.10d
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.10d
Note: consider stick clipping the second bolt - I found the moves up to it pretty tough and although the clipping hold is good, it would put you in grounder territory. May 31, 2016
S. Neoh
 
S. Neoh  
 
Very good route. Stick clip recommended. .11a seems fair but the top 1/3 is much easier than .11a. Oct 26, 2015
Parker Wrozek
Denver, CO
  5.11a
Parker Wrozek   Denver, CO
  5.11a
This is a really great line. 11a I would say (especially if you don't stick clip the bottom) but you are out of the hard moves right away. Probably more like 10c/d the rest of the way if you like slabby stuff.

I would suggest stick clipping this though, the bottom is a bit tough. Jun 30, 2015
Adam Beck
Nashville, TN
 
Adam Beck   Nashville, TN
 
I think the rating is congruent with Muir Valley ratings. May 5, 2015
Are you people crazy? I'm sick of the sandbags. This could possibly be soft at 11b but it's solid 11- Oct 30, 2014
John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.11a
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.11a
Most fun route on this section of cliff that I did, especially the start. Great for early 11 leaders. It's soft. Just stick clip it and give it a go. Jun 11, 2014
BCA
michigan
  5.10d
BCA   michigan
  5.10d
another vote for soft. good movements though, and a fun start! Aug 11, 2012
Gif Zafred
Pittsburgh, PA
5.11a
Gif Zafred   Pittsburgh, PA
5.11a
A soft 11a May 23, 2012
ethlogo  
This route is over rated at 11a. 11b is silly. Apr 13, 2012