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Routes in Horseshoe Wall

DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dogma T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gwondonna Land Boogie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Head of State T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Just Missed the Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Wilson's Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pink Tornado Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sentimental Journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Don Gieseck, Geoff Conley 1975
Page Views: 3,443 total, 33/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Apr 9, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Location

Hike up the White Rot Gully and descend in to the main Aeolian Wall drainage to the mouth Willy's Couloir. Proceed up into the large gully and aim for the first recess on the right. Pink Tornado Left starts on the main wall that is behind the right side of a 200 foot tall white triangular flake.

Once on the Sherwood Forest ledges you can rappel Dogma with a single 70m rope. Or you can climb another route (ie., Gwondonna Land Boogie or Scotty) up to summit Mount Wilson. This would make for a climb with one of the greatest elevation gains in the park.

From the base of the route it is unnecessary to hike back up to the White Rot Gully. Walk down to the lowest point of the Aeolian Wall gully where further progress is cliffed out by waterfalls. Two rappels with a single 60m rope get you down. This is much easier than downclimbing the White Rot.

Description

Pink Tornado Left climbs out of Willy's Couloir and up to Sherwood Forest below the Horseshoe Wall on Mount Wilson.

Pitch 1, 200 feet, 5.9+ Ascend the flake system until it taps out about halfway up. Traverse left into the main corner system and continue up to a niche between the large slab and the main wall. Belay from the rappel tree.

Pitch 2, 160 feet, 5.9 Return to the main wall and climb the pleasing crack to just below the roof. Hang from old two bolts and belay. Anchor can be supplemented with a #2 Camalot.

Pitch 3, 80 feet, 5.8 Slide up the notch in the roof. Belay from bolts on your left or head up and right a short distance and build a belay at the base of a left-facing corner on a large ledge.

Pitch 4, 150 feet, 5.7 Climb the left-facing corner.

Pitch 5, 110 feet, 5.7 Continue climbing the left-facing corner to the large ledge.

Pitch 6, 50 feet, Class 3 Hike to the base of the wall below another left-facing corner system.

Pitch 7, 190 feet, 5.9 Climb the sustained left-facing red corner to a bolted anchor on the left.

Pitch 8, 60 feet, 5.7 Pull a few short moves on to a ledge. Class 3 and build anchor where convenient. Hike into the Sherwood Forest.

Protection

Standard rack up to a single #4 Camalot.
Manderson198
  5.9+
Manderson198  
  5.9+
Climbed this yesterday with Eric. We had planned on linking this with Gwondonna, but after some minor approach shenanigans, and some other inefficiencies, we decided to just do this as a stand alone route.

I've gotta say, I'm a bit disappointed this route doesn't receive any stars in the Handren guide. Granted, it is not a 3 star route, but the climbing was fantastic in some places. The second pitch was amazing!!! Too good to not point out.

Bring some big cams for the long 5.7 corner pitch, and do a lot of bumping. We had a BD 5 and two 4's---placed them early, and ended up having to to run it out ~60 ft, before placing some tiny nuts in terrible flakes. Psychological pro, I suppose. Granted, the climbing was secure, but a fall would have been BAD.

Overall, a pretty great route, with a lot of fun stemming and jamming. Tape gloves would not be unappreciated! A decent approach, fairly long route, and a super long descent, make this a big day, even without the linkup! Mar 18, 2015
Nick Zmyewski
Newark, Delaware
  5.9+ PG13
Nick Zmyewski   Newark, Delaware
  5.9+ PG13
Whatever you do, don't go right once on the top of the triangular slab on the first pitch. It might look ok at first, but leads to super loose and scary climbing up a big hollow flake. Dec 5, 2014
Brett Merlin
Boulder, CO
 
Brett Merlin   Boulder, CO
 
Small green C3 and a pink tricam are useful on P1 after the wide section before the belay blots. On P2 skip the bolts below the roof with the plaque and continue another 40 ft or so to belay bolts, much better stance. Oct 15, 2014
sqwirll
Las Vegas
  5.9
sqwirll   Las Vegas
  5.9
An extra #4 or #5 wouldn't go unused if you brought it. Dogma is the ticket for descending this line. When you get back to your packs, you can avoid going back up into the White Rot gully by heading down and skier's left. On the south side of the wall that separates you from the White Rot gully are two single raps that get you back to the approach trail. Apr 12, 2014
harihari
VANCOUVER
harihari   VANCOUVER
Thanks to whoever wrote me (larry?). the Brock guide has P.T. left in totally the wrong spot. Should you end up on the left side of the flake, you can do the following:


I had doubles from .3 to #2 camalot and 1 #3 and #4. i woudl want doubles to #4, since the climbig is easy but can be somewhat runout with a skeletal rack and there are some very long pitches.

P1. Go up to the climbers'-left base of the big pyramid flake. There is a grayish sorta water groove, then a small tree, leading into a chimney which faces left. Climb this (5.9?) past one ledge to a second ledge which has some trees for an anchor.

P2. Go into the chimney for maybe 20-30 feet, then go up an easy hand crack that goes up and slightly left of the chimney. This will lead you up and rightward to the top of the formation to a big flat spot with trees for pro. 5.7 or 5.8

P3. Go up and slightly right along more cracks (some munge near the start) and eventually you will get to the base of a nice handcrack that goes through a dark section. 5.9

P4 Go up the handcrack, clip the station, fire the roof (easy) and go to a bolted stance.

then you basically go straight up the left-facing corner. After another pitch or two, the thing appears to turn into an enormous terrifying maw of a chimney...but sweat not, stemming the otuside will lead you to excellent pro, cool positions and not too many difficulties. Nov 10, 2010
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9
On pitch 1, if you step left a short distance up (near a bush out of the chimney) there is a laser cut finger crack in a corner - best pitch on the route. Rest was OK to Sherwood forest. We continued on to the upper wall as that was our goal so might have not been paying much attention or savoring this route as much as we should have. Jan 20, 2010
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
The left side is not particularly enjoyable. Apr 10, 2009
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
 
My description describes pitch 1 as going up the right side of the initial white triangular slab at 5.9+. This was how pitch 1 was listed in the Handren guide. Referring to Urioste's Red Book, it can be seen that the original pitch 1 ascended the left side of the white slab at 5.7.

I found the right side very enjoyable and worthwhile; I have not climbed the left side... Apr 10, 2009