Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Don Gieseck, Geoff Conley 1975
Page Views: 4,087 total · 31/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Apr 9, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Location

Hike up the White Rot Gully and descend in to the main Aeolian Wall drainage to the mouth Willy's Couloir. Proceed up into the large gully and aim for the first recess on the right. Pink Tornado Left starts on the main wall that is behind the right side of a 200 foot tall white triangular flake.

Once on the Sherwood Forest ledges you can rappel Dogma with a single 70m rope. Or you can climb another route (ie., Gwondonna Land Boogie or Scotty) up to summit Mount Wilson. This would make for a climb with one of the greatest elevation gains in the park.

From the base of the route it is unnecessary to hike back up to the White Rot Gully. Walk down to the lowest point of the Aeolian Wall gully where further progress is cliffed out by waterfalls. Two rappels with a single 60m rope get you down. This is much easier than downclimbing the White Rot.

Description

Pink Tornado Left climbs out of Willy's Couloir and up to Sherwood Forest below the Horseshoe Wall on Mount Wilson.

Pitch 1, 200 feet, 5.9+ Ascend the flake system until it taps out about halfway up. Traverse left into the main corner system and continue up to a niche between the large slab and the main wall. Belay from the rappel tree.

Pitch 2, 160 feet, 5.9 Return to the main wall and climb the pleasing crack to just below the roof. Hang from old two bolts and belay. Anchor can be supplemented with a #2 Camalot.

Pitch 3, 80 feet, 5.8 Slide up the notch in the roof. Belay from bolts on your left or head up and right a short distance and build a belay at the base of a left-facing corner on a large ledge.

Pitch 4, 150 feet, 5.7 Climb the left-facing corner.

Pitch 5, 110 feet, 5.7 Continue climbing the left-facing corner to the large ledge.

Pitch 6, 50 feet, Class 3 Hike to the base of the wall below another left-facing corner system.

Pitch 7, 190 feet, 5.9 Climb the sustained left-facing red corner to a bolted anchor on the left.

Pitch 8, 60 feet, 5.7 Pull a few short moves on to a ledge. Class 3 and build anchor where convenient. Hike into the Sherwood Forest.

Protection

Standard rack up to a single #4 Camalot.

Photos