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Routes in Horseshoe Wall

DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dogma T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gwondonna Land Boogie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Head of State T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Just Missed the Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Wilson's Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pink Tornado Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sentimental Journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Geoff Conley and Phil Broscovak 1/81
Page Views: 8,336 total · 49/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Feb 19, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Start off of Sherwood Forest about 200' right of the start to the route Scotty, up hill from the big trees. This route is very sustained and thoughtful. Climb up through crack systems, thin corners and roofs all the way up to the mid wall horizontal ledge system with large trees. You are in fact aiming for the first big tree on the ledge. Traverse left along the horizontal ledge to the base of the prominent chimney/corner. Three solid pitches deposits you atop the wall and a magnificent panorama.

Protection

Don't expect bolts, fixed gear or fixed anchors! This is a serious, purely trad, ground up experience. A standard Red Rocks grade V wall rack with extra attention to small gear will be appreciated. There are some spicy, prehaps spooky runouts and thin pro sections to contend with, but this is a spectacular climb and well worth the effort if you are comfortable with the grade and difficulties. The 8th pitch (after the traverse left) is wide and difficult to protect. Modern big gear will undoubtedly be very appreciated. As will keeping your fertilizer together when it starts snowing.
phil broscovak
  5.10b
phil broscovak  
  5.10b
Murphy, just to be clear, there are no old bolts (1970s) on Gwondonnaland Boogie. The only bolts on GB are newer retro-bolts. The old bolts that MadMan placed are on the Pink Tornados. I aam gratified that people are doing and enjoying this route. Mar 29, 2014
Owen Murphy
Fort Collins, CO
 
Owen Murphy   Fort Collins, CO
 
A total adventure connecting Gwon with Pink Tornado. Lots of long fun exposed pitches. The guide book topo we used was a little vague, especially for the last 2 pitches of Gwon. Some really cool bolts to check out from 1976 but don't use them. Mar 29, 2014
Nick Zmyewski
Newark, Delaware
  5.10a R
Nick Zmyewski   Newark, Delaware
  5.10a R
Just did this yesterday with Owen Murphy. Such a crazy adventure. We linked pink tornado left into Gwondonna. Accidentally got off route at the end of the first pitch of pink tornado and had to lead a 5.9 death pitch to get back on route. We led pitches 3 thru 5 of gwondonna in the dark to get to the bivi spot. Spent a cold night bivied at the beginning of the traverse pitch, laying on the ropes because of all the thistles poking us. The second pitch of Gwon is not as scary as the guidebook suggests, we were able to get gear in and the third pitch is now well bolted, I don't think any of the bolts were more than 15 feet apart. The last two pitches of gwondonna are so chossy and had alot of moss. Overall it is a great route, definitely worth doing. What an adventure! Mar 19, 2014
phil broscovak
  5.10b
phil broscovak  
  5.10b
Kodos Andrew & Darren. You mave have snagged a 3rd or 4th ascent.
Certainly a top ten. May 27, 2012
Andrew Gomoll
Las Vegas, NV
Andrew Gomoll   Las Vegas, NV
yeah, I agree with Darren, the route is still very serious. There are still long (30+ft) runs on many pitches and the flakes can be quite crispy. However, if more people would go and climb it it would probably clean up, ha! Anyway, if you are up for a red rock 10a r/x route this is an amazing adventure. I have lots of respect for you guys and your style. Thanks. also, I believe the link with pink tornado makes this the longest route in red rock.

anyone else climb this thing? May 27, 2012
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
Linked Pink Tornado to Gwondonna Land Boogie. Huge route, great day. Even though GLB has had some hardware added, it still has many sections where the climbing is heady. Don't expect this to be a clip up.
Props to the FA party on such a bold route. Holy crap! I can't imagine climbing some of this route in its original state with the gear of the era. We had a double rack and I was still on the edge of my seat the whole way up. May 27, 2012
phil broscovak
  5.10b
phil broscovak  
  5.10b
To answer Crotch;
When we did GLB I didn't want to slog up the Willy's way. So while Geoff, Sybil and Newberry hiked the climbing and bivy gear that way I 3rd classed with a light summit pack up the left Tornado to Sherwood. So I guess I did get to do the first link up. Feb 17, 2008
phil broscovak
  5.10b
phil broscovak  
  5.10b
Note to Larry Hamilton:I was recently surfing around and came across an actual place called Gwondonaland. It is a region at the Fox Glacier in New Zealand. The locals refer to it as having once been attached to India. A different spelling than the Gondwana district of India but obviously related. The New Zealand region has only one N in it's spelling but I don't suppose I could convince the guide book authors to retro print their books for a spelling correction. May 18, 2005
Crotch  
How is Scotty????????????? Nov 30, 2004
Crotch  
just wondering if anybody actually has linked up one of the pink tornado routes to the upper headwall of horseshoe wall (gwandanna land boogie or scottie) Nov 10, 2004
Thanks for explaining the route name, it makes sense to me now! I might add that I am personally responsible for the most egregious geological misnomer among Red Rock climbs, which adds to the irony. Apr 3, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Thanks for the info, Philo! It's nice to know this formerly death route is now reasonable. Now if I can only find a chopper pilot willing to ferry our lazy asses up to Sherwood Forest ... it is not a casual morning stroll to this spot!

I always assumed the name was a tribute to your wives, who were named Gwenn (or Wanda?) and Donna! Kinda like how Wholesome Fullback was named. Oops, silly me! Apr 1, 2004
phil broscovak
  5.10b
phil broscovak  
  5.10b
Gwondonna Land Boogie was indeed named with the ancient paleocontinent of Gondwanna (aka Pangea) in mind. But it was also a deliberate play on, or with words. Simular to the Central Pillar of Frenzy or the Grand Giraffe. It also helps to explain the directions on the "Tectonic Shift" traverse... Gwondonna... "Go on down" the ledge and see if we can boogie off this wall. When we did it originally it was with a small rack of stoppers and hexes (no springs) and a single 150' rope. You can try it that way if you like but the route now has bolted belay/rap stations about every 170', so at least take a 60 meter rope. And if you don't believe there really is a land called Gwondonna then you probably havn't been on this route yet.Cheers, Philo Apr 1, 2004
phil broscovak
  5.10b
phil broscovak  
  5.10b
Here is an update on Gwondonna. Apparently we were braver bolder and no doubt crazier a few decades ago but this route probably should have been rated IV 5.10a/b X. The third pitch was a probable death lead. It had only 3 or 4 small wired stoppers in a full rope length and the climbing is hard steep face. The good news is (good news, bad news, you choose) the whole route has been retro-bolted. This was done with the approval of the first ascensionists. The old pitch three now has enough pro bolts to make it seriously sporting but survivable. The "tectonic" shift ledge even has a bolt to protect that long traverse left. This is still the easiest way up the imposing Horseshoe Wall, now it is a whole lot safer. Mar 31, 2004
phil broscovak
  5.10b
phil broscovak  
  5.10b
George: The easiest (least technical) approach to Sherwood is via Willy's Couloir. Personally I like faster and more direct lines up either side of the Pink Tornado. There are a handfull of other climbing lines and tons of potential for more. I have not done but am aware of the route Dogma. I have looked up at the line above Sherwood forest and it does look spectacular. Joanne says the route was established from the top down which is whty the bolts become denser as you ascend. She has heard that it is a really good route (for a weenie sport climb). Joanne's new Red Rocks Red Book Supplement has a good description and photos. Look for her new book it has some great photos and routes in it. Good luck, I would love to know what you think if you go do this line. Peace Phil Feb 20, 2004
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Hey Phil, what is the best way to get to Sherwood Forest? And have you done, or are you aware of the sport the route "Dogma" in this area? Feb 20, 2004
phil broscovak
  5.10b
phil broscovak  
  5.10b
I have been told that Gwondonna Land Boogie has not seen many subsequent ascent due in part it's serious reputation. I really felt good about this ascent at the time we did it and have always wanted to go back to it.I would love to hear from anyone who has done this route in the last 23 years. It may be a bit serious but imho it is a stellar route. Feb 20, 2004

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