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Routes in Horseshoe Wall

DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dogma T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Gwondonna Land Boogie T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Head of State T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Just Missed the Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lady Wilson's Cleavage T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pink Tornado Left T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sentimental Journey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 2000 ft, 15 pitches, Grade IV
FA: John Williamson, Keith Hogan
Page Views: 3,811 total, 24/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details


This was the very first route on the east face of Wilson, and one of the earliest big routes at Red Rock. It was climbed in 1970 by John Williamson and Keith Hogan using a variation that ascended Willie's Couloir, then cut back right for upper headwall. The adventurous teenagers spent three days on the route. Local master Joe Herbst (who did not know Williamson and was unaware of his climb) climbed the route solo the following year on the day before his wedding. Joe considers the route a milestone that marked the beginning of "serious" climbing in Red Rock. This is an old-time adventure route and deserves an old-time adventurous description:

Climb a gully to the right side of Sherwood Forest. Climb the central crack system on the right-hand headwall to the summit.


Standard rack


Tamara Hastie
Flagstaff, Arizona
Tamara Hastie   Flagstaff, Arizona
We did it some years back and loved does take a bit of route finding and can see where you can get seriously off route...but never did we encounter too much scrub ;) but loved every bit of the route and would do it again in heart beat! We definitely wandered here there and sort created a new route of our own- so much fun!
Climbed it with some snow in the gullies which was great because we did not have to carry too much water with us...The decent gully down the ridge can be a bit tricky to find if you are not familiar with the area...go do it it's one of the oldest routes in the park and what an amazing summit :) Aug 1, 2012
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
Attempted this route 4/7/12. We started in an obvious chimney at the base of the route. From there, the obvious path wasn't terribly clear. We ended up climbing around WAY to the right, avoiding shrubs too thick to get through and some rotten rock on the immediate right of the next section.
Edit: We returned to this area to climb the Pink Tornado Left and I now see that this chimney pitch is actually the start of Pink Tornado Right. Sentimental Journey might be a more obvious line at the beginning if you start way more to the right.

Once past this, we climbed another 600-800 feet of vertical shrub-whacking, up an occasional clean slab in the gully. Once at the Horseshoe wall, we headed right up a tricky, sandy, sketchy pitch I felt to be about 5.10. Once here we looked up to see another few pitches of shrub choked gully before the rock looked cleaner. We decided to bail, due to low morale from the constant scrub oak hurdles. I have never battled this hard against desert shrubbery and unless this route sees extensive gardening, I can't recommend it to anyone. Apr 9, 2012