Type: Trad, Sport, Grade V
FA: Brian Mcray and Mike Lewis
Page Views: 13,670 total · 49/month
Shared By: Jeremy Collins on Sep 21, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen, Aaron Mc

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Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

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You have heard the name and seen the massive Horseshoe Wall. This might just be the most spectacular line on Mount Wilson in all of Red Rock. Huge shout out to the FA team of Mike Lewis and Flyn Brian for making this route a reality! Down below I will be describing the pitches of ONLY the main Upper Headwall, the old topo still exists if you want to climb the lower half too. 

Dogma can be described as taking the beautiful Black Velvet Wall and setting it 2500 feet off the Desert Floor, this route really shows the potential of Mount Wilson.

Harder than Levitation, and easier than Rainbow Wall

Upper Pitch Descriptions:

P1 (7): 5.11c/d, 110' - Start at the base of the huge wall to the left of a black water streak in a short corner, climb the steep corner for 50 feet or so and head left slightly to a brief rest, step right and blaze straight up and right the steep pumpy wall clipping well-spaced bolts through a thin crux to an anchor equipped with rap rings. Amazing pitch!

P2 (8): 5.11b, 100' - Start with a traverse that diagonals up and to the left, and continue up the sustained and steep wall to an anchor equipped with rap rings, this pitch earns the grade due to its sustained nature without much of a rest.

P3 (9): 5.10c, 100' - Continue up the beautiful wall on good holds, through the nice black varnish to an anchor equipped with rap rings.

P4 (10): 5.10c, 80' - Continue up the wall following bolts that eventually head right to a nice ledge with a new anchor (without rap rings, this avoids the old hanging belay another 20 feet up).

P5 (11): 5.11a, 130' - From the ledge belay head up and left through a short steep corner which then climbs past an anchor (with rap rings), climb the face above to a left-leaning crack, either climb the crack (harder) or the face to the right of the crack (easier), which leads to some thoughtful slab climbing with well-spaced bolts that leads to a massive pine tree with webbing and rap rings.

P6 (12): 5.11a, 110' - In reality, the crux is probably a bit stiff for 11a but it's so short that rating this pitch harder than 11a seems unreasonable. From the tree move the belay up and left along the ledge (there is no second anchor but the ledge is big), climb straight up and right through the boulder problem on the steep face until the grade eases off, and then climb the 5.8 face to an anchor on a ledge equipped with rap rings.

P7 (13/14): 5.8, 150' - Continue up the nice face past a first anchor to a second anchor. Note: the rock quality is better than it looks.

P8 (14/15): 5.8, 160' - Continue up the final face past an anchor through some bulges keeping an eye out for the next bolt(s) to stay on route, pull over the top of the wall, and take in the magnificent panorama. Congrats you climbed Dogma!

Rap the route with a 70m rope using the anchors every hundred feet or so that have rap rings.

Descent: Retrace your steps down the approach gullies. 

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