Fin Bagging Society

This route pays Homage to "Madman" Geoff Conley. Madman had a vision to push a route up the Fin, one of the proudest and most intimidating features on Wilson. His line ultimately went unfinished and remained as one of the biggest undone projects in Red Rock for years. Kyle Willis and I made the first ascent of the Fin via "Head of State" in 2017. Without prior knowledge of the history of the feature, we were surprised to find rappel anchors near the top of the wall. "Fin Bagging Society" loosely follows the line that we envisioned Madman taking, connecting large chimneys to a miraculous series of headwall pitches that somehow connect good pro to go bolt free! 

P1 40M 5.9+ The first pitch two pitches off Sherwood follow WWW. Start with technical slab, traversing left to a good crack. Near the top, make an inobvious traverse back right protected by a  .1 size cam in a horizontal seam to a great bolted belay ledge. 

P2 40M 5.10a Climb nice cracks to another good bolted belay ledge. WWW takes the aesthetic green Right facing corner above, while FBS goes left into the chimney.

P3 65M 5.8+ Climb the deep varnished chimney to a big ledge system with a fixed pin to help belay near the lip. Expect sustained chimney climbing with limited pro on slippery black rocks

P4 15M 5.3 Move the belay up to another ledge.  Don't go all the way to the top of the tower, but stop where a vertical hand sized Crack on the main wall goes up towards a bush.

P5 40M 5.9 Continue up the corner, passing a couple large loose rocks to another ledge(this terrainmay be shared with the previous pitch depending on where one belays). Then follow the awesome vertical hand crack splitting the face above. Near an alcove towards the top, where a bigger bush blocks the crack, make a, slabby traverse rightward to another crack (with a smaller bush in it) that splits the top of the tower. Follow this to a narrow ledge on top of the tower. 3/4's behind the tower to belay.

P6 20M 5.11- PG-13  Step left off the ledge to a crack. Climb up to a bush and traverse right horizontally a ways to a right trending seam. Take the seam to a more distinct crack. Take this a short ways to a narrow stance below a small roof to belay. There is an off-route piton straight up off the belay, these moves are hard and the pin is barely "ok" so it is recommended to do the work around to the left. 

P7 50M 5.10a PG-13 Pull the roof, trending up and left in a shallow corner. Follow the corner and discontinuous seams with occasional fixed pins all the way to a ledge just above a small pine tree. It is helpful to have a 5 for this belay.

P8 45M 5.8 PG-13 Head straight up the corner above, continuing basically straight up thin cracks to the summit. Belay on bolts from a route that comes up the north ridge of the fin.

Descent: Take your preferred hike off Wilson. I typically never recommend rapping Dogma as it often takes twice folks as long, but it is possible to leave everything, including shoes at the base of the upper dogma pitches and rappel back to this point. 

This route starts on Sherwood Forest via Willy's Wild Wide for two pitches, then continues up the obvious chimney system to link to an incipient line of cracks up the right hand side of the fin. Probably the best way to approach is via Pink Tornado Left. 

Single Rack .1 - 4, Doubles .2 - 3, Double set of offset nuts, single set of rp's, 70M rope. Optional 5