Avg: 2.2 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 540 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||Jay Smith, Paul Van Betten. 1986|
|Page Views:||1,525 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||J. Thompson on Mar 25, 2009|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Pitch #1: Begin on a flat ledge and climb the easy chimney above where the huge dihedral reachs the ledge. Climb up the chimney past a large white chockstone, there is some bad rock. Step left around the top of the chockstone and continue climbing the dihedral above. The crack pinches down and the crux is encountered. Continue up the dihedral to a very nice ledge and belay. 5.10d, 175ft.
Pitch #2: A very unique pitch. The dihedral continue's above and has become thin and red. Find some very interestingly eroded holds for both your hands and feet. Use the huecos on the right hand wall for upwarded movement. Pass several small ledge's and belay on the highest one with a nice little bush. You will stop directly below an Offwidth. Save a #1 and #2 Camalot for the belay. 5.10b, 130ft.
Pitch #3: Start up the short lived offwidth. A #4 camalot protects well. After exiting the OW do a thin move(crux) then continue up the corner to a Very small stance, directly below the thin 4th pitch. There is currently a fixed anchor here. 5.10d, 70ft.
Pitch #4: Buckle up buttercup! Nest a couple of RP's off the belay and then begin climbing the thin corner. You can get a small RP above you before commiting to the thin moves. After the intial thin moves get a couple of very good piece's and a rest. Climb up the corner using the bottom of the huge hanging flake...be careful! There is a good #2 camalot in the crack on the right. Climb up to the roof and place an RP or 2. Next step down and left. Undercling the bottom of the flake and smear, traversing left. The flake pinch's to nothing, all foot holds disappear, lichen grows on the wall, and the hold and gear you need are 5 ft away. After using some kind of Ninja power, place gear at the lip of the roof. Continue traversing left on white, lichen covered rock aiming for a bolt above. Clip the Quarter incher, then pull over the bulge and onto easier climbing leading to the belay on the left. Whew! 5.11a R, 80ft
Descent: Rappel with 2X 60M ropes off to the left down the steep wall. Pass the first (and bad) anchor you see. Find a bomber 2 bolt anchor on a good ledge. From this anchor a single double rope rappel leads to the ground.
It may be possible to rap with a single 70M rope if you use the poor anchor between the rappels mentioned and another intermediate below the 2nd rap anchor mentioned above. No promise's!