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Routes in Challenger Wall

Adventure Punks T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Challenger T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Enterprise T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Explorer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jupiter II T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lost in Space T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Right Stuff, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Space Cowboys T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Voyager T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
X-15 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 360 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Jay Smith, Randal Grandstaff. 1986
Page Views: 1,741 total, 19/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Apr 13, 2010
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Pitch 1: Start on low angle rock heading for the bottom of the obvious corner/crack system. Do a couple of funky layback/stem moves to get into the corner. Get used to funky stems and laybacks. Continue up the corner until it is possible to step left into another crack, this is near a tree growing from the crack. Continue up this crack system to a small triangular ledge. Belay off of cams and nuts. Be sure to save something in the .75 to#1 Camalot range. 5.10-, 135ft.

Pitch 2: Climb the corner above into a short squeeze chimney with a small roof at it's top. Place gear at the top of the chimney then step back down a bit and traverse left across a fragile white face. Climb up to the left side of a larger roof, climbing around it on the left. Continue up the varnished corner above to a small ledge on the right and belay. There is a fixed nut and jammed knot here.5.10- R,70ft.

Pitch 3: Climb up and left from the belay. You will climb over a section of large blocks and flakes. at the obvious top of this section step back right into the main corner system. Climb into a short chimney, capped by a small roof. Climb out the left side of the roof using unique body positions. Climb up to a small, blocky, broken ledge on the right and belay. 5.10-, 110ft.

Pitch 4: The money pitch! Do some thin moves up off the belay, leading to another short slot. Find some good gear. Climb out the left side of the slot using powerful, corner switching laybacks. Plug in some gear and power through to more good holds. just as the crack/seam starts to arch left do a face traverse back right into the main corner. Climb up the obvious varnished ramp on the right to a 2 bolt anchor(not very good), belay. 5.11a, 50ft.

To descend make 2 or 3 rappels down and to the left of the route. Left of the route.

Location

Enterprise is the next crack system to the left of X-15.

Protection

RPs/HBs: 1 set
Nuts: 1.5 sets, heavy on the middle sizes.
Cams: 1 Blue Alien
2 each Green Alien to #1 Camalot.
1 each #2,#3,#4 Camalots.
2 Ropes.

Photos

Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
@Richard Stone - I didn't say it couldn't be done with a 70, I just said it looked like a rope stretcher. Sorry if my wording was confusing - I edited it to make it more clear. My correction to the rap beta was mostly about people NOT using the sketchy leeper anchor. Oct 10, 2017
You absolutely CAN rap with one 70M rope and no down-climbing, contrary to what Matt is saying above. We just did a few weeks ago. Don't attempt the Voyager finish with only one 70M, though - you need two ropes to get off that one. Apr 5, 2017
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
We climbed Voyager yesterday. Enterprise and Voyager share the first 2 pitches, and Enterprise gets an R rating because of the 2nd pitch, but Voyager doesn't get any warning? Not sure how that works.

That said, I don't think the 2nd pitch is R. Just PG13. There's good gear right at the corner of the roof - I managed to get a .5 totem and a .75 totem right next to each other in a shallow but good slot right at the corner of the roof. Falling getting to this point would have been not fun, but probably would have just ended up with some scrapes from penduluming across the slab. If you don't get the gear at the corner of the roof and try to pull past the roof into the corner above with no gear, then the fall potential gets much much worse. I put a bomber #3 up high in the roof before doing the traverse. Couldn't get a #4 in up there anywhere.

RAP BETA:

Voyager is not possible to rap with a single 70. Looks like the first rap on Enterprise is a rope stretcher with a single 70, so be careful.

From the nice anchor at the base of the 3rd pitch of voyager it's a short rap straight down to a nice new anchor on a good ledge. Then from there, it's 30m to the ground. You DO NOT need to stop at the scary Leeper anchor on top of that old manky bolted route - avoid that anchor. We took the tat off that anchor to discourage anyone from using it when there's this nice newer anchor only 40ft higher that will get you to the ground. Apr 5, 2017
Did this route a few days ago. Here are a few comments on this really good route:

P1 - many sections of mid 5.10 with just enough gear to be chill. 10b
P2- Definitely R rated as geared at this point. Would be a hospital trip if you blew the moves at the end of the traverse. A #4 high up in underside of roof mitigates the run out a bit. 10a
P3 - Thought this was a 3 start pitch of excellent, well protected, climbing. 10b
P4 - We mistakenly went straight up and ended up in slings. Likely 12+ to free. Go left as per description.

Josh, thanks for the bolting work and all the entries here on MP Mar 8, 2017
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.11a PG13
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
  5.11a PG13
I donated a couple biners to the anchors on the rap down, but one of the anchors could use a couple more for an improved rap experience. A fun climb with the first 100ft being much more fun and thought provoking when i was rubbing my nose on it than I though it would be when looking at it from the ground. For me the most serious climbing was on the traverse section of the second pitch which i thought to be very 10+, especially with the crux section occurring at the end of the traverse. Make sure the leader and follower has their game face on for this one. The fourth pitch was a fun, chill 5.11a. If i did it again i would have continued up the final pitches of Jupiter in to the cool looking 5.10 corner, but at the time i did not know the gear requirements so i opted to rap at the end of enterprise. It turned out my gear rack for Enterprise should have been fine for those final pitches. May 13, 2014
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
  5.11a R
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.11a R
heard through the grapevine that you replaced that last anchor. thanks so much bro! we were really scared with me FOLLOWING that pitch! I think we both had visions of me falling and yanking the two of us right off the wall...


i'll bring those quick links if i return this season.



thanks again,


jon Apr 24, 2012
That's rad, Josh. Thanks for doing that. Mar 26, 2012
Josh Janes    
 
The final anchor on this route was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2012. If you use and appreciate updated bolts in Red Rocks, consider a donation to the ASCA at safeclimbing.org.

It is possible, stopping at every station, to rap down the wall with a single 70 meter rope.

There is still, and only, one bad anchor on this side of the Challenger Wall to my knowledge: That is the anchor atop the first pitch of that obscure bolted route. This anchor is used if you rap with a single 70 - I'd like to see it updated. Also, it would be nice if someone doing X-15 or Enterprise would bring 4 quick links or so (or some quick links and rings) and a wrench to put proper rap set ups on the various anchors. Right now they are a mix of webbing, quick links, and sometimes single 'biners (which cause ropes to twist). A few extra links and/or rings and reallocation of the existing stuff would clean everything up for the better. Mar 25, 2012
J. Thompson
denver, co
 
J. Thompson   denver, co
 
Ok here's my personal thoughts on the route.

This route is FULL value trad climbing. Be prepared for some loose rock(that will clean up), runouts, and unique climbing.

The pitchs are fairly sustained at their respective grades. Pitch 2 is fairly runout.
The pitchs are very fun, with unique(did I say that yet?) climbing that's just a pleasure to do.

The crux pitch is awesome, I'd give the first 3 pitchs 2 stars...but then the crux pitch forced me to bump it up a star.

On the 4th pitch there is a variation that goes straight up the main corner, it's supposed to be 5.12a...and looks quite thin!

The last anchor needs to be replaced, badly.

HAVE FUN!

josh Apr 13, 2010