| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 36.1187, -115.49655 |
| FA: | Paul Van Betten and Sal Mamusia (P1&P2). Paul Van Betten, Nick Nordblom, and Paul Crawford, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 6,896 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | blakeherrington on Apr 23, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
The setting is beautiful, the stone varnished, the gear is where you want it, and you'll probably have the wall to yourself. In the Spring of 2010 my partner and I found a straight-sided stopper stamped "VB" (Paul Van Bettten?) and a Forest Titon stamped "PH" on the route. Evidence of the climb's seldom-done status.
There are 5 pitches, one of which is below average, but the other 4 are exceptional. All belays are bolted.
P1 - Begin with some runout 5.8 or 5.9 up corners and grooves just left of the obvious dihedral line. Move right into the corners and chimney. Step right at the top. 5.9 or 5.10-
P2 - Work straight up from the belay on RPs and small gear. At ~50 feet, step left into a clean left-facing corner. Climb the corner (crux) on RPs and good small gear. 5.11c, but certainly harder than the .11c on Cloud Tower and Lev29
P3 - straight up from the belay on runout 5.9 face climbing, or slightly right and then up, which a couple RP placements. Aim for the bolt and face climb up and left (5.10d) to a thin crack. After the crack, move left around a large block and belay from bolts on top. 5.10d
P4 - Follow a vegetated low-angle crack or runout arete straight up, passing a band of lighter/sandier rock, to the huge ledge. 5.8
P5 - Up the clean and steep hand crack in the flaring corner on the right. The crack widens and becomes lower angle. As the rock suddenly deteriorates, move left across blocky terrain to the final anchor. 5.10
Rap the route with a single 60m rope. After 2 rappels on Jupiter II anchors, move slightly left and rappel nearby "Challenger".



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