Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: P. Van Betten, J. Smith 1986
Page Views: 1,936 total · 19/month
Shared By: hanshan on Oct 31, 2010 with improvements by clint helander
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


P1. Pretty casual 10a up the left facing corner. Transition to the left crack where a small tree grows out of the top. Belay on gear on comfy ledge (.75 - #2 cams) (140 feet)

P2. It gets real here with pretty sustained 5.10 climbing. Continue up the crack, placing pro before face climbing left under the roof. Continue up and around the roof on thin cracks (the jammed knot and nut anchor described in Handren's guide is gone). Continue up the crack, aiming for a ledge with loose stacked blocks up and left with a bomber two bolt anchor. (140 feet)

P3. Wow! Another full rope length up what looks from below like a super low angle crack. In fact you get perfect hands in a flare, tips laybacking, and thin face moves. The low angle offwidth chimney protects with hand size pieces. The thinning cracks above take lots of finger and small nuts. The final face crux is out a bit from your gear back in the corner. You don't really want to fall here- partly because the fall would suck and partly because you've already come this far.

Descent: A long rappel leads to a questionable scrub oak laced with rat-gnawed old slings around broken branches in the Steep Space chimney. Another rappel leads to the ground. Be careful of stuck ropes.


Located on the right side of the Challenger Wall, just left of X-15. Voyager shares the first two pitches of Enterprise before branching left.


Doubles from #00- #2 camalot. 1 #3 and 1 #4. Contrary to Handren's book, leave your #5 behind.
Save a #2 for the last moves.


J. Thompson
denver, co
J. Thompson   denver, co
The same start/first pitch as Enterprise.

josh Nov 21, 2010
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
The third pitch is a Red Rocks rarity being that it's a crack requiring pure crack technique. It's got it all; a burly start, followed by desperate tips laybacking, and finishing with a bit of runout face. 11b going on 11+ Apr 12, 2015
clint helander
anchorage, alaska
clint helander   anchorage, alaska
incredible route. got the onsight on the second and third pitches! Needs another set of bolted anchors and another set of rappel anchors to get to the ground. the bush you rap off in the Deep Space slot sucks and is right above a rope eating crack. Pull your ropes way to the left (near challenger) to reduce risk of rope getting stuck. This definitely doesn't get climbed all that often as seen by the lack of chalk and small bits of loose rock on the second pitch traverse. Nov 13, 2015
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA

I recall two double rope raps to the ground on good anchors. One from the top of pitch three to the base of pitch three. One more to the ground. Feb 3, 2016
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.11 PG13
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.11 PG13
We were under the impression that we could rap this with a single 70 based on some erroneous info. Not recommended.

The rap from the top of the route back to the anchor at the base of pitch 3 is 155ft. We got down with some fun/ridiculous shenanigans, but it's much better just to have the right ropes. From the bottom of pitch 3 a short rap straight down to a nice new anchor, and then one more 30m to the ground.

As for the route - I'd say this route might deserve a PG13. There's real climbing going on with some bad fall potential on both the 2nd and 3rd pitches.

The 2nd pitch is actually easy for the grade - I'd say maybe 10a, but the lack of gear/funky gear/questionable rock make it 10+ headiness, so be comfy leading 10+ before hopping on this one. But for the follower, really not that hard.

The 3rd pitch felt hard for the grade. I think with a bit more traffic there would be less lichen and the liebacking and slab moves up high would feel a bit easier. Also, it says "tips crack" - its thinner than tips. Bring at least two #00 cams, and a #000 fits nicely to protect the hardest moves of the layback. On the final PG13 moves to the anchor, the last pro you get is a bomber .5 or .75 or #2. Probably good to double up before heading off - wouldn't be a fun fall, and you don't want it any longer than it needs to be.

Also, I'd recommend bringing a set of brassies on this. They got used on the first pitch as well as the 3rd. Apr 5, 2017
Matt Farrell
Bend, Oregon
  5.11 PG13
Matt Farrell   Bend, Oregon
  5.11 PG13
I just went an looked at the entry for Enterprise here. Enterprise and Voyager share the first 2 pitches, and Enterprise gets an R rating because of the 2nd pitch, but Voyager doesn't get any warning? Not sure how that works.

That said, I don't think the 2nd pitch is R. Just PG13. There's good gear right at the corner of the roof - I managed to get a .5 totem and a .75 totem right next to each other in a shallow but good slot right at the corner of the roof. Falling getting to this point would have been not fun, but probably would have just ended up with some scrapes from penduluming across the slab. If you don't get the gear at the corner of the roof and try to pull past the roof into the corner above with no gear, then the fall potential gets much much worse. Apr 5, 2017
Alex Shainman
Las Vegas, NV
Alex Shainman   Las Vegas, NV
Is it possible to get off this route with a single 80m? An 80m with 20' of extra cord?? Anyone know for sure??? Is pitch 3 not 130' as listed in the Handren guide? Apr 21, 2017