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Routes in Lower Cheeks

Active Boys Puke a Lot T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Dogs Go to Heaven S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Attractive Nuisance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Engines of Archimedes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fairies Wear Boots T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fiction T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Friendly Fire S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gerberding Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Room, The T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Heat Seeker T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Infinite Jest S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
La Bomba Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tango for Two T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wizard, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zipper (complete aid line), The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2
Zipper, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Mark Weigelt, 70
Page Views: 2,348 total, 22/month
Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

The first pitch is often climbed as it is a fun .10 slab/thin crack.
Pitch 2 is the obvious roof that is visible from the road. Pitch 4 starts from the Beach, so is technically on the Upper Cheeks.

For pitch 1, climb a steep 5.9 corner with a crack to access the slab. Thin crack and crux slab climbing lead to a bolted, chain anchor below the roof. Continue via aid or descend. One 70-m rope is more than enough to rap off or toprope.

Location

Around the corner to the right of Clay and All Dogs Go to Heaven is this slab with an obvious corner below it. Descend with a 60m rope.

Protection

Gear small to 2 inch. Fixed rappel anchor on top of P1. Other pitches probably require pins, etc. and the condition of their anchors is unknown.
Michael Carter
  5.10b
Michael Carter  
  5.10b
i can't believe more people don't climb this thing!

cleaned out a lot of spider-webs yesterday, but the route is in good condition! Jul 19, 2017
IJMayer
Bellingham, WA
IJMayer   Bellingham, WA
^What J. Cirillo said Jun 23, 2017
Josh Lowy
Sacramento, CA
 
Josh Lowy   Sacramento, CA
 
Made a Thanksgiving excursion yesterday out to the Cheeks. The Zipper was mostly dry even in the pouring rain, definitely climbable as were the neighboring hard sport climbs. Line is really fun, there seems to be a somewhat loose block in the middle of it, shortly before the crux. Big enough and not loose enough that I think it will pop, but in due time a fall on a piece next to it could easily change that.
Nov 25, 2016
J.Cirillo Cirillo
Seattle, Washington
J.Cirillo Cirillo   Seattle, Washington
Bring lots of small nuts for the slab. May 31, 2015
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
I completely agree about pitches 3-5: they should not be missed. But they are best approached via the Perverse Traverse (no need for a rope now - just clip into the cable) and walk along "The Beach". May 17, 2014
braddean Lignoski   Seattle
Pitch 3 (5.10) is great and pitch 4 (5.11 a or b) is absolutely classic. There is also a new pitch that brings the route all the way to the top of the wall.

This route is not to be missed! Jun 13, 2013
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
The first pitch is a fun mix of slab and crack climbing.

Another big plus is that it, as well as several routes just to the right, can be climbed in a light rain. Mar 12, 2013