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Routes in Lower Cheeks

Active Boys Puke a Lot T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Dogs Go to Heaven S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Attractive Nuisance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Engines of Archimedes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fairies Wear Boots T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fiction T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Friendly Fire S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gerberding Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Room, The T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Heat Seeker T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Infinite Jest S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
La Bomba Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tango for Two T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wizard, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zipper (complete aid line), The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2
Zipper, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Michal Rynkiewicz, Ryan Hoover, Chandler Davis
Page Views: 1,444 total, 83/month
Shared By: michal on Jul 7, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Start up juggy climbing too a boulder problem throwing to two big knobs. From there classic slab moves lead to a shallow corner. Stem and press your way up the fantastic knob studded corner to a small roof, face climb to another corner and finish on slopers pulling onto belay ledge. Tie knots in rope this is a long pitch!!!! Not sure if 60m makes it. Solid for the grade. Named after Black Sabbath song "Fairies Wear Boots" "So I went to the doctor
See what he could give me
He said sorry son, you've gone too far.
'Cause smokin' and trippin' is all that you do."

Location

Left of less than zero, right of short bolted climbs near "outdoor hang board".

Protection

Quickdraws, cam's, stoppers work really well

Photos

IJMayer
Bellingham, WA
 
IJMayer   Bellingham, WA
 
glad i'm not the only person who thought this was .11a. At the final bolt I used the arete out right for a move or two (below the two pins), before moving back left into the corner. awesome body position! this climb keeps you guessing the whole way! Jun 23, 2017
Usz
 
Usz  
 
As good as Act of Strange Boar, there should be lines waiting for this climb Sep 9, 2016
Ryan Hoover
  5.11a
Ryan Hoover  
  5.11a
Pins are on less than zero, that finishes up at the same anchor but is out of reach from this route. There is a bolt or two up there though! Sep 6, 2016
Loganator
blue van, on the highway to no
  5.11
Loganator   blue van, on the highway to no
  5.11
~12 draws I ran out and there's two pins and a bolt at the top I couldn't see. Small gear and stoppers for the crack. Awesome mixed line, boulder problem is not impossible for an onsite attempt. Definitely harder than the wizard! Sep 6, 2016
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
Looks great. Two questions:

Is it "fairies"?

Does the boulder problem have a different grade? Jul 7, 2016