Type: Trad
FA: Michal Rynkiewicz, Ryan Hoover, Chandler Davis
Page Views: 1,689 total · 57/month
Shared By: michal on Jul 7, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Start up juggy climbing too a boulder problem throwing to two big knobs. From there classic slab moves lead to a shallow corner. Stem and press your way up the fantastic knob studded corner to a small roof, face climb to another corner and finish on slopers pulling onto belay ledge. Tie knots in rope this is a long pitch!!!! Not sure if 60m makes it. Solid for the grade. Named after Black Sabbath song "Fairies Wear Boots" "So I went to the doctor
See what he could give me
He said sorry son, you've gone too far.
'Cause smokin' and trippin' is all that you do."

Location

Left of less than zero, right of short bolted climbs near "outdoor hang board".

Protection

Quickdraws, cam's, stoppers work really well

Photos

Loganator
blue van, on the highway to no
  5.11
Loganator   blue van, on the highway to no
  5.11
~12 draws I ran out and there's two pins and a bolt at the top I couldn't see. Small gear and stoppers for the crack. Awesome mixed line, boulder problem is not impossible for an onsite attempt. Definitely harder than the wizard! Sep 6, 2016
Ryan Hoover
Marysville, Wa
  5.11a
Ryan Hoover   Marysville, Wa
  5.11a
Pins are on less than zero, that finishes up at the same anchor but is out of reach from this route. There is a bolt or two up there though! Sep 6, 2016
Usz
 
Usz  
 
As good as Act of Strange Boar, there should be lines waiting for this climb Sep 9, 2016
IJMayer
Anacortes, WA
 
IJMayer   Anacortes, WA
 
glad i'm not the only person who thought this was .11a. At the final bolt I used the arete out right for a move or two (below the two pins), before moving back left into the corner. awesome body position! this climb keeps you guessing the whole way! Jun 23, 2017
Zacks
 
Zacks  
 
Wow such a cool climb, happy I could finally get on it, Everytime I cam up here in the spring there was a water streak across the jugs, and I don't think I could do it in the summer heat. This would be a tricky onsite, first time I tried it I thought it would be a sandbag at 11c but now I think its easier (still rough for 11a) for me the hardest part was just below the small roof. Super Exited to try and lead this now but I think its gonna rain for a while :( Oct 22, 2018
If you are 5 foot tall be prepared for at least 5.12- difficulties. Didn't all you dudes get your short girlfriends on this to beta test for grading? ;-> Nov 22, 2018