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Routes in Lower Cheeks

Active Boys Puke a Lot T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Dogs Go to Heaven S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Attractive Nuisance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Engines of Archimedes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fairies Wear Boots T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fiction T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Friendly Fire S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gerberding Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Room, The T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Heat Seeker T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Infinite Jest S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
La Bomba Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tango for Two T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wizard, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zipper (complete aid line), The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2
Zipper, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: FA: Max Dufford, Fred Grafton, 92
Page Views: 265 total, 5/month
Shared By: michal on Apr 1, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Great sport climb, starts with technical slab with thin layback 11-.This leads to a 10+ mantel which brings one to large ledge. Jugs lead to a bulge with a powerful crux 11+. A climber has fallen from near the top and slammed into the wall hard enough to crack a rib, so don't blow the final moves... Its all there just slightly committing if going for the onsight.

Location

To the right of Friendly Fire starts on same ledge system

Protection

Handful of quickdraws

Photos

Ol Toby
CA
  5.12a
Ol Toby   CA
  5.12a
Also thought this pitch was high quality, 3.5 stars. The opening slab-to-mantel is classic slab dancing requiring precise and powerful movement.

I blew the crux clip with rope out and my belayer's attentiveness kept me off the slab below but caution is certainly warranted. The clip is tricky and the sequence is hardest at that point. Mar 11, 2015
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
Really cool route. Had always wanted to try it and found it clean and ready to climb this past week. Thought the top was pretty stout. .11+? Sure, why not! As for a hard fall, it seems that with a soft catch it wouldn't be an issue. I wonder if what was meant is that it's possible to hit the big ledge if falling from the final hard moves? I didn't look too closely but it didn't seem to be an issue. With such a steep wall it seems that only an overly tight belay would cause someone to slam back into the wall. Jun 6, 2013
Jon Nelson
Bellingham, WA
 
Jon Nelson   Bellingham, WA  
 
Easy & dry access for setting up a TR, and the route tends to stay dry in wet weather, so it is a great route for working.

It has somewhat slabby, technical moves at the bottom, a thoughtful mantle, and then a pumpy finish (which I haven't yet gotten). Apr 1, 2013