GPS: 47.824, -121.566 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Drewsky on Dec 30, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

Description

The Cheeks comprise the large white formation on the right side of the Upper Walls. It is left of the Diamond, and above and left of Duck Wall and Lookout Point.

The Lower Cheeks is the bottom half, and ends on the large ledge splitting the formation called The Beach. As this ledge is huge and easily accessed by a cable, the Lower Cheeks is perhaps the best place for toproping at Index. And like the Upper Cheeks, has routes that stay dry during rainfall.

Routes here include such classics as The Zipper, (.10b) and the spectacular Clay, (.11+), as well as several quality sport climbs such as Friendly Fire (10b), Engines of Archimedes (11d), and all Dogs Go to Heaven (.12c).

Getting There

Upon reaching the Upper Wall via the trail (about 30 minutes from the Country), you will see a water streak and/or waterfall. Turn right and cross the stream, following a path downwards and eventually back up. You will pass many routes to your left, eventually reaching Clay, which is an obvious left-facing corner. Total: about 40 minutes from the Country.

Toproping

It is easy to set up topropes on the Lower Cheeks, particularly so on the left side. Here several bolt anchors are set along the Perverse Traverse, which is easy to walk onto. Routes include

Gerberding Route
The Green Room
Heat Seeker
Friendly Fire
Engines of Archimedes

Just before the traverse, one can use the tree in front of the large block to toprope

Black Planet (5.9)
Ted, Ted Nugent (11c)

By traversing onto the Beach, one can rap down to the anchors atop P1 of Clay and TR that route. Also, the nearby Pressure Drop Wall has several classic crack lines that are easily TRed.

Also, if you climb P1 of The Zipper (10b), you can TR with one rope three other routes on the slab.

30 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Cheeks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Gerberding Route
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 20
The Zipper
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
The Wizard
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Fairies Wear Boots
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
Bravo Jean Marc
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 3
Fiction
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 9
The Green Room
Trad, Sport, TR
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 14
Clay
Trad 2 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Heat Seeker
Trad, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 3
La Bomba Roof
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
All Dogs Go to Heaven
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 6
Attractive Nuisance
Sport
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
 5
Infinite Jest
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Gerberding Route
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
The Zipper
 20
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Wizard
 9
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Fairies Wear Boots
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Bravo Jean Marc
 5
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Fiction
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad
The Green Room
 9
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport, TR
Clay
 14
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Heat Seeker
 5
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
La Bomba Roof
 3
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
All Dogs Go to Heaven
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Attractive Nuisance
 6
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Infinite Jest
 5
5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport, TR
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