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Routes in Lower Cheeks

Active Boys Puke a Lot T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
All Dogs Go to Heaven S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Attractive Nuisance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Clay T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Engines of Archimedes S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fairies Wear Boots T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fiction T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Friendly Fire S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gerberding Route T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Room, The T,S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Heat Seeker T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Infinite Jest S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
La Bomba Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tango for Two T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Wizard, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Zipper (complete aid line), The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A2
Zipper, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Description

The Cheeks comprise the large white formation on the right side of the Upper Walls. It is left of the Diamond, and above and left of Duck Wall and Lookout Point.

The Lower Cheeks is the bottom half, and ends on the large ledge splitting the formation called The Beach. As this ledge is huge and easily accessed by a cable, the Lower Cheeks is perhaps the best place for toproping at Index. And like the Upper Cheeks, has routes that stay dry during rainfall.

Routes here include such classics as The Zipper, (.10b) and the spectacular Clay, (.11+), as well as several quality sport climbs such as Friendly Fire (10b), Engines of Archimedes (11d), and all Dogs Go to Heaven (.12c).
2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Getting There

Upon reaching the Upper Wall via the trail (about 30 minutes from the Country), you will see a water streak and/or waterfall. Turn right and cross the stream, following a path downwards and eventually back up. You will pass many routes to your left, eventually reaching Clay, which is an obvious left-facing corner. Total: about 40 minutes from the Country.

Toproping

It is easy to set up topropes on the Lower Cheeks, particularly so on the left side. Here several bolt anchors are set along the Perverse Traverse, which is easy to walk onto. Routes include

Gerberding Route
The Green Room
Heat Seeker
Friendly Fire
Engines of Archimedes

Just before the traverse, one can use the tree in front of the large block to toprope

Black Planet (5.9)
Ted, Ted Nugent (11c)

By traversing onto the Beach, one can rap down to the anchors atop P1 of Clay and TR that route. Also, the nearby Pressure Drop Wall has several classic crack lines that are easily TRed.

Also, if you climb P1 of The Zipper (10b), you can TR with one rope three other routes on the slab.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower Cheeks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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